Uzbekistan

Day 2 in Bukhara and our guide is wondering why we have not written anything on our blog—he is keeping us too busy.

It was a long trip to Uzbekistan—MSP to Paris, Paris to Istanbul and Istanbul to Tashkent.  We had a 4 hour layover in Paris and about 6 hours in Istanbul with one hour was spent in the passport control line, 1/2 waiting for other passengers, 1 1/2 at a day room in a hotel, and 3 back at the airport to catch our midnight flight.  At some point we had done 10,000 plus steps on the pedometer and had not been out of an airport.  

The Boys

Tashkent is a big city full of Russian architecture.  The 1966 earthquake destroyed much of the city and the rebuilding was done with assistance from neighboring Soviet republics.  Builders were promised apartments if they came and helped to rebuild, the incentives worked and also created a diverse population.  The city is marked by wide boulevards, green spaces, squares and statues.  We were pleasantly surprised by the peaceful yet modern feel to the city.  We never did find a lot of traffic but noticed that 99% of the cars are white and many of those are Chevrolets, made in Uzbekistan.  After a delicious local lunch we walked back to our hotel via a road filled with street artists and vendors.

We visited the former “Red Square” that is now Independence square.  It has a war memorial, with a statue of the Sullen Mother,  a sixteen column entrance gate and an independence monument.  Uzbekistan became independent in 1991 so is still a young country despite it’s long history.  The other highlight of the morning was a visit to a madrasa where artisans come to study with master craftsmen—wood and metal carving, miniature paintings, and pottery.  We had lunch at a sidewalk cafe where we had french fries and cheese bread.  Fries are a staple with every meal, not sure if that because we are foreigners or just the way it is.  This is a good time to talk about the food:  so far our favorite is the soup, which is served with almost every meal.  Spring soups full of veggies, potatoes and pickles or cream soups.  Pickles are in everything, therefore Nancy does not eat everything.  Lots of salads, with potatoes, onions,  carrots, beets and pickles.  Deep fried cauliflower, ice cream for dessert, and so far fish, beef, lamb and chicken.

The museum of applied arts took our breath away.  Embroidery pieces the size of bedspreads, all hand done and in styles distinct to the region of the country from which they were created.  Also on display were traditional clothes, wood carved furniture and gates/doors, metal work, decorative and daily knives.  A subway ride revealed themed stations, one for cosmonauts, one for the crossroads coming together at the market, our goal, and one for the books of a famous author.  At the market we walked among the sellers of fruits, spices, meats and baskets.  We wanted to find a place to sit and just watch the people go by.  Many are dressed in bright colors, often with sparkly materials, colorful scarves and beautiful faces.

Early morning departure for Bukhara—we all said that it had been a long time since we had been on a prop plane.  We met a woman who works with UNICEF and was surprised to run into Americans since so many of the tourist are German and French.  Bukhara is an old city of the silk road, our hotel is in the old part of town and from there we can walk to the different domes that were built at various crossroads where jewelers, rug makers, hat/scarf sellers, and money exchangers had their stalls.  We visited the Ark Citadel was the residence of the Khans and a symbol of the state power that had been on this location since the 4th century BC.  Originally the Ark included the whole city, official institutions and houses of the Emir, his wives and relatives.

Sue's New Posse

Walking back through old town to our hotel we stopped at a puppet maker shop, the central square/pool, and a synagog with a 400 year old Torah.  An old woman was asked to vacate her house so that the central pool could be put in but she refused.  Eventually she was persuaded but her stipulation was that a synagog be built in the courtyard of one of the nearby homes.  In the square there is a bronze statue of the Uzbeke version of Don Quixote.  While there we encountered a young family and engaged in a dialogue without any common language.  We took pictures of them and they of us.  Afterwards they invited us home for dinner—it would have been fun.  The same statue drew the attention of 7 or 8 Uzbeke older women.  Sue asked our guide to tell them she liked their dresses—once again long and sparkly with head scarves to match.  One woman asked how old Sue was and her reply of 67 drew high fives, a strong strong handshake, a bear hug and a kiss on each cheek—sisters of the same age.  Lots of laughter and picture taking ensued. Many of the women in particular have lots of gold teeth. Not just this group but women in general. And scarfs are worn by most. Very colorful and tied at the back of the neck with varying knots. The knots and colors depict the region they are from.

The material indicates their status. Their dress in long robe like coats over tights or pants is colorful and bright.  

Today we wandered yet again and visited madrasas, mosques, the oldest tower in town, the Poi Kalon (minaret with big feet), and a mausoleum that survived the destruction of Genghis Khan.  The blue domes, and sandy colored brick buildings with carved and painted plaster around the doors/arches and carved wood columns define this ancient city.  People are friendly and are interested in engaging with us, sharing their well wishes and stories of their activities, crafts, or age.  That seems to be one of the topics that comes up early in conversation.

Tonight we are doing to a local musical/dance show and then to dinner at the home of a local man who lives near the center of town.  We leave tomorrow to begin our drive to Samarkand.