Circumnavigation of Australia-Dec-Jan 2017-18

A Visit to Sydney and Aboard the Regatta doing a Southern Cross Cruise Circumnavigating Australia
December 14 2017 to January 23 2018

Dear Nancy,

Another journey is underway. Promise being kept.  I would rather have you here in person and not just in my heart. But to quote the Captain of the Regatta (I will explain later) speaking in his german accent, "This is not vhat we can control". And to quote me,  So it is.....

Back to Australia I go. Remember our trip a very very long time ago. And remember how we got here. We had planned a trip to Arizona by car. I was at work and someone asked me where I was going on vacation. I replied Australia. They said how you getting there. I said driving. They laughed and said you can not drive to Australia . My reply, who said Australia! I said Arizona. No was the reply, you said Australia.  When I got home that night I told you the story and we said almost in unison, Australia sounds good. Lets go. And so we did to Australia and New Zealand. The start of many a journey for us. And then I returned to Australia often in the last 5 years of my career as I had an office in this incredible country. So now I go back to see old friends and to see the entire coast. Yea.

Sydney-Dec 14 -

Flying and arriving Sydney Dec 16. Across the date line and on planes for many hours. Still arduous. But always worth it. I arrive and off to the Four Seasons in the Rocks at the foot of George Street. Much to my surprise George is under construction and has been for 2 years with many more to come. Light rail and a remodeling of the Central Business District. Managed chaos.  Glad I am staying where I am but makes it difficult to get around except in the Rocks and on the Quay. 

Walked and looked and relived many a good memory including you and I Nancy. Also that of the Cuna Mutual Staff. And many an hour with Paul Treinen living in Sydney on our behalf as we engaged in the sale of the company. I will always be grateful to Paul and CMG Aussie Board and Staff for making a tough situation bearable. Anyway I was able and thrilled to meet Karen and Karla and spend a wee bit of time with them. Karen is a true inspiration  having battled cancer and won. She is also one heck of a fine human being with a great family. She was the CEO as we sold the company and did a heck of a job. And she became and remains a good friend. Karla, head of HR, had no kids when we last met. Now she has 3 lovely daughters and brought one to lunch with us. I really enjoyed meeting Grace and seeing Karla. 

I also had a great lunch with Michael, our former CEO. Michael is a good bloke who has found peace with himself. He is pursuing a business dream and I am happy for him. Nancy, he bought lunch and it was great sushi. 

The rest of my time in Sydney was spent visiting the places I loved like the opera house, theaters, Queen Victoria Building. And yes I got a little pre Christmas shopping in for me. Nothing like Christmas trees and decorations when it is 90 degrees plus and G'Day is the operative word.

Lots of memories including our McDonalds story came flooding back. Sydney changes little and the people remain warm and wonderful.



Dec 20-22 Tasman Sea

Time to board the ship and off on this adventure. Easy peasy to get to the Regatta  in her berth at White Harbor. Sailing time was scheduled for 6PM. I was in my room at 3, clothes put away and ready to sail out under the Sydney Harbor Bridge and past the Opera House. Nancy,  this is where I feel your absence in a very concrete way. Packing and Unpacking. What a mess I make of it. Too much and forgetting other things. Where were you my dear!

Anyway as I was unpacking the sky darkened and the rain came with a vengeance. It was black black black. Then came the lightning and ka boom. Lights out and Houston we have a problem. Announcement that we are experiencing issues.  6 became 7 and 7 became 8 which became 10 and the 1 AM and we are still in our berth. A tug finally appeared but I can no longer stay awake so to sleep I go. When I wake up at 6AM we are at sea. BUT we are now told we have electrical and issues. The PA is finally fixed working well enough to give safety instructions so we could leave but many issues remain. Plus we are so far behind we will spend less time in Brisbane and will cancel our  stop at KingFisher Bay Fraser Island. Dang it.

Dec 22-Brisbane.

I will not be able to get to Steve Irwins Australia Zoo. I was looking forward to the croc show. So with my tour cancelled to the Zoo Why you say. We got the late start due to our problems so adjusted our schedule to skip our first stop at Kingisher Bay on Frasier Island and then got to Brisbane way late. So  I took the shuttle downtown and walked around looking at Christmas decorations and old buildings. Boy can you tell the Aussie's are connected to Britain by the architecture.  Oh yes and I did get a little shopping in where I found my Christmas greetings I could post on facebook and here
. 

Brisbane is the Capital and biggest city of state of Queensland. Its a very modern metropolis that is on the Brisbane River  and not far from the sea. It has a large healthy economy and is listed as a very livable city. Back to the ship and off to sea we go.

Dec 23rd and 24th on the Coral Sea. 

Dear Nancy,

Christmas eve on board the Regatta. You and I have sailed on her in the past. We also have spent a Christmas on board a Oceania ship. While we are having extra time at sea we have caught up with our schedule. The ship is decked out just beautifully with decorations everywhere. I have not mentioned that Rick and Nita Luis are on board. It is great to have their company. I tell everyone that Rick married us and Nita is a good long time friend. Nice to have those stories to share. The ship is quite comfortable . My cabin is on 6 kinda mid ship forward. Easy staircase down to the show room and casino. Up to 10 on forward elevator to Horizons. Bar and dancing at night. Yummy cakes and pastries. Tea in afternoon. A place to sit and watch the sea. Deck 5 has the boutique and main dining room midship. Deck 9 midship the pool, bar, and aft the Grill(Best hamburgers ever), and the Terrace Cafe where we used to love to sit outside and eat.  And I still do. Think of you each time. And as you know Oceania is known for their food. That has not changed. Main dining room on 5 where Nita and Rick eat often with me joining on occasion. Then there is Toscana and Polo. Great Miso Sea Bass. Since I am in tour mode I should not fail to mention the lovely library on 10 aft and the spa, salon,  and workout facility on 9. My back has been bad so I have  been spending lots of time in the spa.

Christmas even I get dressed up and off the dining room with Rick and Nita after listening to the ships officers and some crew sing Christmas Carols on the Grand Staircase near the Ginger Bread Village. Quite fun. I do love Christmas music.



Dinner was lovely with prime rib or Christmas goose. Lots of courses but I will stick with one or two. All too rich for me. Remember the lobster and steak available each day. Nothing changed. And each day some  special meat or theme. Suckling pig, beef wellington, sirloin roasts, pork roasts, lamb etc etc etc. Not to mention the theme food ie Mexican, Indonesian, Greek, Japanese etc etc etc.. 

While on the subject of the ship let me talk about what else goes on. Nightly entertainment is a lovely string quartet of violins playing each evening before dinner and sometimes at evens. Then there is nightly shows including a on board troop, then singers and musicians and comics that come on board to play one or two nights. Some great some good and some, well some. The there are first run movies and enrichment lectures. If you care to there is the normal bingo, bridge,  trivia, mini golf, ping pong, etc etc etc.. Also needlepoint groups and other groups. And for those interested in the hard ship facts Regatta is 592 feet long with 83.5 beam and 19.5 max draft. Delivered in 1998 built in France. Max speed is 20 knots. 11 decks and holds max of 684 guests. We have few less than 600 on board. Oh and most important-crew of 400 from 45 countries.

Dec 25 Christmas-26-27 Cairns and Coral Sea

We arrive at Cairns mid day on Christmas. It is a hot day with 90 degrees and humidity to match.  As one would expect not much is open this day. But it still is a great days to get off and visit the city that is situated on the Great Barrier Reef. Nancy, I found the new aquarium was open. And it was quite good. Lots of corals and lots of great fish with good explanations of all. AND air conditioning. 

Now its time to walk home. Oh, the casino was open but I kept walking. Probably the largest place in town. Walked the promenade that circled the downtown. Lots Nice sculptures, seawall, and parkland.  Family picnics abound. Then I came across the the city pool which is a beach, fountain, wading and swimming pool. Full of laughter and holiday joy plus welcome relief from sweltering heat. Boy, I wanted in!!!!!!

Back to the ship past the city hall, library and other buildings. But what was that racket. Look up and find trees full of huge bats. I had seen something similar in Sydney when I visited for business over the years. There they are, hanging in mass. They are known as flying foxes. At around 5PM they take to the air in a large cloud. You could see them from the deck of the ship-a flying cloud of foxes. 

The best part was as I was looking there was a little girl standing there with her bat purse swinging it around as she chatted with the bats overhead. I am sure they were answering.

Up in the morning and off to a snorkel tour of the Great Barrier Reef. Nancy I am very nervous given this is my first snorkel without my snorkel buddy. Yes you are with me but I need to see you!

Off on a boat with many others for about an hour out to a dive platform on the reef.  It was quite controlled. A large area is market off with ropes and there are floating squares for lack of a better description anchored throughout for you to come up and hang onto. We each were given a full body lightweight suit including head, hand, and foot covering. Not attractive nor fun to get on but I am so happy to have it as lots of jellyfish. Like thick with jellyfish. Oh dear Nancy maybe I should not go.

Chicken-move forward please. Great platform to walk down and sit up to your waist, put on your fins and slide off to start. Took me a bit to get all adjusted. Once again images of you dancing in my head. 

Then off I go. Way way cool. I forget I am scared and just enjoy the corals and fish below. And the jellyfish I am pushing aside. My highlight was a giant giant clam. Lots of the corals are bleached out and dead but I did get to see enough to make me want to keep going. Sea stars and pickles. Fun. One jellyfish sting on the lip but not bad at all. More like a electric buzz. OK time to be done. Swim up on the platform, turn over and sit down. Easy peasy. Fins off and up the stairway to have a great lunch. The platform is huge with picnic tables, bathrooms, viewing cellar etc.  Then onto the glass bottom boat for a view outside the snorkel area.

Now its time for me to snuba. They would have taken beginners diving but I wanted to try snuba.

On goes a heavy weight belt, walk down a few steps into the water and they lower a diving helmet onto my shoulders. Glasses on and under I go. Weightless as I walk out where I am introduced to various critters holding stars,  pickle, cucumbers etc. Very cool. Take pictures of Nita Luis who is trying this adventure with me. Fun Fun Fun. A great way to end a visit to the reef. Wish I could see more but time to peel this skin off me and get back on the boat to return to shore. Thanks Nancy. Your confidence in me rang in my head. And you in my heart.

Back to the ship. Onward to Papua New Guinea

Dec 28-29 Alotau and Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea

After a day at sea we arrived at Alotau. A small town on Milne Bay we are here to primarily visit a few villages. We ended up at one.

Very poor and under developed yet lush green and full of hope. Hot hot with small buses that were not air-conditioned except for one-mine. Others had rusted out floors and torn up seats. They had warned us when we signed up to go ashore. We ended taking a long ride to one village that had set up to greet us and show us a way of life. We were on the water so breezes cooled. Great people. Showing us how and grew sweet  potatoes, betel nut and somethings I could not figure out. Lots of fruits. They weave baskets and make skirts from palm leaves. They carve wood and make small boats. I talked with one women who proudly showed me the necklace she got to allow her daughter to marry. Yes, it still works that way today. We met the kids full of laughter and joy and the little ones not really sure about us. They fish, hunt pig and eat crops they have grown. Its one for all and all for one. Share wealth or hunger. I quite enjoyed the afternoon. And also respectfully and repeatedly turned down betel nut. A slight high come along with the red mouth and teeth from chewing this stuff. And it is chewed by adults and children alike. Can not help but wonder.......

Our guide shared with us how the tribes have been turned from hunting each other and what goes with it to Christens. It is not all that long ago and there are still tribes that live in the mountains that have not changed. Still a Few left. He also shared a culture where 800 plus languages are spoken and until recently little written. Ownership rights to land is done by where your ancestors are buried and not in deeds or written form. If you can not prove where they are you have no right to the land.

This island country is very culturally diverse and has only been independent since 1975. Less than 20 percent of the population lives in cities. The landscape is rugged with volcanos, mountains, jungles and circled  with coral reefs. Primary School is required in the city . Per capita income is 3000 or less but outside the city most just live off the land.  Another observation, no birds. Why, they are hunted and eaten. Much more to learn and more to explore. And then there is Port Moresby. 

A bigger city and the capital. But full of crime and drugs. Extreme wealth of a few and poverty for many. Headquarters for mining, oil and palm oil companies. Not a place you should be walking around. We had a tour and once again it was not what it should have been. Our guide in our bus which lacked air did not speak much english and had never done this before. He spoke so soft you could not hear him when he did speak which was rare.

Anyway our first visit was to a small village right out side the city. Surrounded by water it was full of  houses of wood and metal. Some built on stilts over the water. We were welcomed as we drove in by hellos everywhere . A bustling place as it was preparing for the social event of the season. A wedding. 

Part of the dowry was evident-huge bunches of bananas. And the wood being gathered to cook the 50 plus pigs. I was told by a women who I spoke with for sometime that this wedding had been saved for for over 10 years and would cost around 150,000 New Guinea dollars. Over 500 attending. She lived in the city but was there with her mom for the wedding. The party was already starting. 

I roamed freely and engaged with many. Most spoke english and were happy to chat. One of the passengers had brought stickers for the kids so thanks to him we were all a big hit. As you would expect sanitary conditions were lacking and garbage was everywhere. Yet I felt safe.

Nancy, it reminded me of the neighborhoods and villages of Cambodia. 

Then we were  off  to a model village out in the country. Polar opposite. Clean, organized, sanitary and a large Anglican church as the center of the community. They met us in native costumes and did dances for us. They were still celebrating Christmas so games for the kids and fun for all. Yet the people were the same as the other village. Ready to engage and chat. I did think the kids were a little less naive here.

The end of a delightful day. 

Dec 30-31

 Cruising the Coral and  Arafura Seas

Sea days are full of food, movies, games, naps, casino etc. Me, I do the movies and try hard to manage the food to just over too much. Some days the sea is rough and some days calm. Some days hot and some days not. So instead of commenting on each sea days I will just tell you what sea we are on. One other note. We cross several time zones with hour changes and one 1/2 hour change. After we go north, west, south and start back east the time zones will go back until we hit Sydney.



Jan 1 2018 Darwin 

Dear Nancy, A new place for me. Capital of the Northern Territory (150,000 or so population)and on the Timor Sea. A pretty little city built on a bluff with lovely beaches below including a nude beach. Hmmm-don't think the locals would appreciate me visiting . Also while it is
hot and very humid but swimming in the sea this time of year is not good as sea is full of deadly box jellyfish know as stingers. So my choice is to head the territorial wildlife park.  Spent most of my time looking at crocs and walking thru flora and fauna. Also in s aquarium and great nocturnal house. But the highlight was the bird show. Quite interesting with hawks, eagles, demonstrating their hunting and food seeking skills. All birds found in the territory and all free flying and quite beautiful. Loved the eagle breaking a hard shelled egg by using a rock and shooting it at the egg with his beak. Each of these beautiful creatures has keen eyes and sharp claws.

                                         Jan 2  Cruising Timor Sea


                                        JAN 3, KOMODO ISLAND, INDONESIA

 Who would have guessed I would return to this tiny Indonesian Island to view these pre historic creatures. The Island is quite beautiful from a distance with deep canyons, craggy mountains and rainforests. Its green green green. As I walked the same trails and saw the same very little waiting to get to the dragons I remembered our visit step by step. Unbearably Hot and humid so you could not tell my tears from my  sweat. The Komodo Dragons seemed smaller to me but never less scary creatures.  Saw a total of five. Few pics and back to the ship after running the gauntlet of the local market.
Found out later that a few folks went snorkeling with private guide. They said it was incredible. Darn.
But that evening leaving the Island we were accompanied by dolphins, flying fish and a gorgeous  sunset. Wow.

Jan 4-5 Bali (Benoa) Indonesia

We made a mad dash for shore driving the ship full speed all night so we could get our first of several medical emergencies on shore.  Detached retina.  We were met by ambulance. Person is better and back on board. Phew

Remembering the last time we were here together. We had the most fun looking for a Harley shirt for my brother and at a dog rescue place. This time was much much better. Day one I did arts and crafts. Our guide was quite informative. I had forgotten that Bali in a mix of Hindu, Muslim, Christian and Tao. So one temple after another. Some very very ancient, 1000 plus years, and some very new. But all the inhabitants co existing in a peaceful environment.  The other striking thing about Bali is the wonderful artistic ability of so many of its inhabitants. 

Stop one on the arts and crafts tour was a Batik Factory at Tohpati. But only after our bus broke down and another had to come rescue. Our sweet driver parked us in the shade next to one of the beautiful rice fields. Anyway, I though I was not very interested but quickly became enamored with the processes and gorgeous results. Some were large stamps Some were small pipe like instruments. In both cases the design was sketch on the fabric by hand and then wax applied. Also some were free hand and original. Then dyeing the fabric. Then scraping wax off and applying other color etc etc. Then the cloth is boiled washing to get wax totally out. 

After watching came buying. Just a scarf but I could have gone crazy. Oh yes and a pipe like instrument. But most special was the worker who took my ball cap and did a free hand design on the bill for me. Love it.

Next stop Celuk, a village where half the folks living there are doing silver or gold. A quick demo and then shopping. Just a tiny piece.

wood carving 

Wood Carving

Wood Carving

Next was Kemenuh village, center of woodcarving. Wow, could not have imagined what and how they could carve these gorgeous works. Everything from tiny to huge towering pieces.  Teak, ebony and other local woods are used. Nancy, this would have been your favorite. You loved wood and each piece here was special. I bought just a simple little Buddha to remind me of you and the place. 

We also stopped in Bona at a bamboo place but I must admit I stayed on the bus. Not much interest.

We also visited Peliatan Village Art Cooperative which is full of painting. You name the subject and they had it. Modern, Balinese, Hindu epics and stories, Etc Etc. It was huge and overwhelming. I restrained myself but kind of regret not finding a piece for Arizona. Oh well. Another time perhaps.

Bali Day Two Jan 5

Sue in rain at Batuan Temple

 Day Two was some of the same and some different. Once again we traveled thru the countryside to visit different areas. When I speak of villages it sounds like there may be wide open spaces between. Not really. One runs into the other with rice fields wedged in everywhere. Each house has its own temple so as you are driving you are seeing these unique little temple with statues of gods etc. And then there are the million places making those gods and temples along the road side. A real treat for the eyes. That really is Bali-a treat for the eyes.

On to the ancient temple Batuan. It is over 1000 years old. Intricate buildings and amazing place. Even in the rain that came. Ran into Rick and Nita. We are not often at the same place at the same time but I am enjoying having them on board. Fun time. 

Barong Play-

Next stop was the Barong Traditional dance show. The Barong is a mythological animal representing the good spirit and his friend the monkey. Rangda is a mythical monster representing evil.  Lots of action Lots of myth with tigers, and men and dancing girls who represent the servants of Rangda. Way too long to explain but almost of fun.

Ancient God-Black and White Represents Good and Evil



                                              Jan 6-7 Timor Sea and Indian Ocean
Once again being on board during sea days can be fun. Also can be relaxing. Also fattening   as you eat and eat and eat more. Nancy, I am not nearly as good without you on board. Less salads and good stuff and more desserts. More hamburgers because as you know Ocean grill has the best burgers in the world. I am stick to the morning routine of fruit and yogurt you taught me. Now why don't I do that at home? And Nancy I am collecting more seas this time out. Tasman, Coral, Arafura, Timor, Indian Oceans,. Also did the Australian Bite and Bass Straight. Your in my heart so I think you get to cruise them as well. Hey, I just learned that Gary Tradewell, and old friend and husband of Karen passed away. Remember I told you I stood up for their wedding with Greg. Anyway, find him in heaven. He loves to dance. One of the favorites is the Stones ....Hey you get offa my cloud. The vision of you two dancing to it on a cloud makes me happy. Gary was Karens soul mate so I really know what she is feeling right now.

Jan 8, Exmouth

Patagonia, Chile and Staten Island Oct 8-29 2017

Here goes my attempt to write the blog. You will notice a new form. The way I am going to move forward is to write this in the form of a series of letters to Nancy. This is the first of that series. I hope you will enjoy some of it. The old one we wrote together. So this one while I am writing it without her I am writing it to her.

Oct 9, 2017

Dear Nancy,

You made me promise to travel and I have been doing just that during this past 11 months. Mexico last December, a attempt at Lisbon and the Coasts of Spain, France and Portugal. Someday I will explain my shortest attempt trip but not now. A trip to Alaska with my brother and Charlie as we had planned. And now here I am in South America finally having decided I can attempt to blog again. Can you correct my spelling from where ever you are these days? 

You will be familiar with this trip. It is the one we were leaving on when you got your surprise diagnosis. Fly to Santiago and proceed down the Chilean Coastline to Ushuaia. The fly to Buenos Aires and on to Iguazu Falls. It's that National Geographic trip called “Rounding the Cape Chilean Patagonia and Argentinas Staten Island  plus Iguazu Falls.

Flew to Santiago on an overnight flight via Atlanta. Uneventful. Met at the airport and on to a lovely hotel in  downtown Santiago. Room was not ready so sat around for many hours before heading off to city tour. Walk around city square hearing a bit of history and folk tales  of Chile. The city is surrounded by the Andes. Spectacular. City is large and modern. Chili  had been blessed with a stable economy for many years and you can see it. But without a doubt is earthquake country. It dominates most discussions.  A short visit to a small museum with loads of pre-Columbia pieces. Then back to the hotel and into my lovely room. Nice dinner in the hotel restaurant before heading to bed as it has been a long 36 hours. Bags out by 9PM and wake up call at 4AM for the charter flight to Puerto Montt where we are to board the National Geographic Explorer.

Easy flight and we are here. On board I check in and meet up with my luggage in my room.

 Nancy you would like this room. It is a single but spacious and comfortable. One deck up to dinner and two from the bar. Perfect!  One deck down to the mud room and the computer center. We board the zodiacs from the mud room. Easy Peasy. Lovely library and lounge up top. Have not been to the chart room or bridge but will go later.

 The normal fire and safety drill takes place and we start to meet the Captain and his crew.

Captain is from Germany and is quite a funny fellow. Plus engaging and bright. That's a first or do you remember differently?

Not long and our first meal starts. Food is plentiful and good. One never goes hungry on this ship. The expedition leader is Lucho from Ecuador. Dennis is the doctor. Remember him? He gave you the shot and saved you when you were so so very sick on our Baja trip. He remembered me. Only wish you could have said hi in person. Anyway, seven naturalists and a few photographers and divers. Plus the most delightful speaker by the name of Yolanda Kakabaadse, the President of World Wildlife Fund.  No surprise that all the staff is delightful.

I remain a bit nervous about this trip. How could I do this without your encouragement and hand. Who would I tell about what I had seen and felt. As I was unpacking I continued to have my doubts. I glanced out my window and what did I see. Off the side of the ship was a boat named Nancy. Thanks for letting me know it was ok to go and that you were with me. I got the message. I bet there is no other Chilean boat named Nancy.

Bedtime after a  very nice dinner with nice folks.  Sam and Good night,

Love Sue

Tuesday Oct 10,2017

Dear Nancy,

Today finds us at the Castro- Chiloe Island here in Chile. Chiloe Island the the Chonos Archipelago are a Southern  extension of the Chilean coastal range, which runs north and south parallel to the PacificCoast and the Andean Mountains. Castro is the capital and is on the east side. The west side of the island is rainy and wild, home to the worlds few temperate rain forests, the Valdivian temperate rain forest. The city of Castro was founded in 1567 and occupied by the Chono, Huilliche, and Cunco people. The Spanish arrived much later. he name of the town means Place of Seagulls. Very appropriate.

We had a half day to explore. Some folks went to the Chiloe National Park to hike. Others, myself included, explored the towns of Castro, Dalcahue and Quichao. Sites included  the houses on stilts and handicraft market. Also some very uniques buildings.

Started off rainy but the sun poked its nose out and stayed to make it a very pleasant most of our visit. Countryside is lovely. Sheep and cow farms on the land and oyster farms on the sea.

Most of the homes in the city were sided with unique shingles made from the local hardwood. The shingles last around 40 years at which point they are taken off, turned over and put back on for the next 40. The homes are also on stump like foundations. That makes it easy to move them which happens with some regularity. Everyone turns up and houses are put on logs and rolled to the new location with horse, oxen and people pulling pushing and shoving. So you do not buy a bigger better house you buy a new better location and move the house. If it is over water the houses are floated. Appears this local wood is magic. Called Minga . Everyone works together and helps each other with no expectation of pay or payback.  Makes sense to me. After the move comes a great feast. A pit is dug and stones that have been heated over a fire are placed in the hole. Then comes seafood, meats, potatoes etc and it is cover with with rhubarb leafs. When done the party starts and goes and goes and goes!

Chile has 200 species of potatoes. 

We walked thru a fresh market and handicraft market. What made an impression on me was the size of the carrots, colors of the fresh eggs, and oysters on a string. The handicraft market was filled with knit items and items of wool and wood. Bought gloves.  

People were welcoming and kind. 

Back to the ship for the Captains dinner and meeting of all staff and crew.

A good day all in all. Mild weather and new people. Time for bed.

Sam.

Oct 11, Weds.

Hi Nanc.

Today we are in the Valdivian forest to do a hike. The forest is in Pumalin Park. The park was created and donated by Douglas Tompkins who had traveled to Chile for years to hike, ski climb and kayak. Tompkins and his wife owned North Face and Espirit  and were committed to protecting the earths wilderness. They created a trust and eventually acquired 742,000 acres to creat the park. His vision was for CHileans and the world to experience the unique landscapes and natural wonders. And that is exactly what we found in the park. wonders of flora and fauna. Wonders of birds. We met the Chaco Tapacuo bird and its beautiful call. It was a lovely hike ending at a lovely waterfall. And the walk was in the sun and under blue skies. But our lunch was at a local hotel while it rained.

Let me talk about the weather her in Chile/Patagonia. In minutes it goes from gorgeous to rain to fierce wind. Temps range from early morning lows of low 30’s  to highs in low 60’s.  The farther south we go on the trip the highs become lower to lows remain same. The weather is much like lower Alaska. A temperate climate with amazing amounts of rain.

We have wonderful naturalist, photographers and guest speakers  on board. Our leader Lucho is a Ecudaorian full of enthursiam and wonder. Our photographer Drew is from Wyoming and loves cougars/pumas. We have naturalists from Alaska, Argentiana, Oregon, Australia,  Chile and Washington. We also have two divers who bring us the wonders of the undersea world near us as we travel. Yes they dive in these very very cold waters. 

Days are filled with wonder of what we see as we hike and the wonders of what we hear from these informative experts.  Plus we have the knowledge of our guest speaker Yolanda who is the CEO of World Wildlife Fun. 

I wish I could give you the day by day information they shared but you will have to trust me when I say it was amazing.

Thursday Oct 12,

Hey Kiddo,

Sun up at 7:01 . We arrived 230 miles south in the fjord of Arsenal. We head to the head of the fjord to a town Called Pureto Chacabuco.  We hike once more to a beautiful waterfall. Oh dear I forgot. We got met by dancers, a couple, in traditional dress. The spurs on the gentleman were the size of soucers. Lovel bright costumes. 

Today for lunch we had a tradition Lamb BBQ at a lovely hilltop place overlooking a lake. The lamb is done on a spit over an open fire. 

Sundown at 8:14. Back on board for another nice dinner and bed by 9. Pooped!

Thoughts of you each day. Even more so when I have to figure out cameras, clothing and snacks. Or I want to turn to you and say look at this!!! So guess what I say look at this in my head. 

Cheers,

Friday Oct 13 Sunrise 7:09

Hi,

Last night After leaving the port we head westward out the Fjord on our way 250 miles south west. It takes us 17 hours traveling all night to arrive mid morning today. We are at Estero Slight a hidden fjord within the southern tip of a peninsula know as  Estero Slight...

Guess What-I pooped out and stopped writing but the ship kept a journal. Just plain too little time and much exhaustion after busy days.Here is the ships log. 

Chiloé Island, Southern Chilean Coast

Darkness still engulfed the ship as we approached the lights of Castro, the largest town on Chiloé Island. Quietly the captain and local pilots brought the ship alongside the pier in the center of the town. A slight drizzle, cool temperatures, and overcast skies with light wind started the day. Disembarking right after breakfast we had two options for the morning’s activities. One group headed to the south of the island before crossing to the outer coast to visit the Chiloé National Park. The other group went to the north of the town for a more cultural experience, and to see some of the island’s landscapes. Both groups would return for a slightly late lunch in the early afternoon.Chiloé is the second largest island in Chile and at over 3,000 sq.

Oct 10, 2017 Parque Pumalín, Chile Early this morning, the National Geographic Explorer made her way into a long narrow fjord, deep into the coastal mountains of Chile. As the light came up we could see that we were surrounded by beautiful snow covered peaks and, wonder of wonders in a temperate rainforest, bright sunshine and blue skies.  Our destination was Parque Pumalín, one of the beautiful reserves created by the American conservationist, Douglas 

Thompkins

Estero Slight

Traversing 250 miles south-west allotted some time on the ship for briefings and presentations this morning. Naturalist and ornithology expert, Doug Gualteri gave an in depth presentation on not only the local avian species seen on the trip, but demonstrated some key insights of how to bird watch properly. Binoculars at the ready, our ship glided into the foggy fjord of Estero Slight by the afternoon. From the ship we could see some of the endangered marine otters splashing in the water. Majestic waterfalls and lush greenery covered the steep, surrounding walls of mountains. Once we reached our landing, deep within the fjord, our hikers set out to tackle the muddy path towards Cabo Raper’s historic lighthouse. A few avid hikers even made it all the way to the lighthouse, seven miles roundtrip, and were able to meet Sergeant Carrillo and his nephew. Sergeant Carrillo has manned the naval station of the lighthouse for the past five months, and said that it had been the hardest winter he can remember- the roof of the building blew off in July. He noted that sometimes the wind was so bad while trying to repair the roof that he could only put in one nail before having to retreat back into shelter. Others opted to explore the lively bay surrounding the ship via Zodiac

Oct 13, 2017

Tortel and Martinez Channel 

 Today we were able to explore the small fishing village of Tortel. This small town of approximately 500 people sits in the beautiful setting of the Patagonian fjords and is perched on the hillside above a small cove. Fishing boats dot the coast and an intricate system of boardwalks connects the houses and businesses found here. I was lucky enough to lead a photo walk with an enthusiastic group of guests into the town. It was great fun to wander this sleepy little town, as was evident on the smiles on everyone’s faces as we made our way back to the ship. It’s such fun to look for interesting photos in places like these. The board walks, old fishing boats, and people of the town made for great subject matter for our photography. After boarding the ship and having lunch, I was able to give a lecture on smart phone photography.

Oct 14, 2017 

English Narrows & Estero Eyre 

We awoke to beauty. The National Geographic Explorer floated calmly in front of a glacier chosen specially by our Chilean navigation pilots on board, a holding area to await the daylight needed for us to safely traverse the English Narrows. All hands were on deck for the weaving passageways of the narrows, a spot that must have been quite a nervous endeavour when the likes of Magellan were first passing through. The afternoon was full of ice once again, this time in front of the longest glacier in the whole of South America: Pio XI – named after none other than the Pope himself. 

Oct 15, 2017 

 Seno Montanas, Chile  

Early this morning the National Geographic Explorer navigated its way through the narrow channels and between the many picturesque islands toward the spectacular fjord known as Seno Montanas – the fjord of mountains.After breakfast we headed ashore in the Zodiacs to get an up close view of the enormous Bernal Glacier which was easily accessible through a beautiful forest trail.

Oct 16, 2017

Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Having the opportunity to visit this icon of Patagonia for the day is one of the many highlights of our expedition, and it didn’t disappoint. This landscape has been shaped by glaciers thousands of years ago with the vestiges of that era still clinging to the surrounding peaks. Winds and water have been putting the finishing touches on it since the last Ice Age ended, and one can only expect that when exploring the Patagonia steppe, or Pampa, you’ll be touched by both. At just under 500,000 acres or 700 square miles, Paine (blue) sees almost a quarter million visitors each year. The Paine Cordillera is the central feature with its torres (towers) of granite reaching over 2,500 meters. Not part of the Andes Mountains, the Paine massif is only 80 million years old and is a distinctive geologic formation. Today we set out to get the most of our time here. Half set out on a near 5 mile hike through the steppe, where guanaco roamed along the trail, Andean condors soared overhead, and even an elusive puma was spotted rested under a granite cliff face observing its domain. The remainder of our guests set out to see more of the park, stopping at the various points of interest to take it all in.  

Oct 17, 2017

At Sea, Chilean Fiords

This morning we left Puerto Natales en route to Karukinka Park, on the big island of Tierra del Fuego  To leave the Almirante Montt Gulf, we had to cross Kirke Narrows.

Oct 18, 2017

Karukinka and Ainsworth Bay

As the new day’s first rays of light broke through we enjoyed our navigation down Admiralty Bay, a huge fjord that heads from west to east, biting deep into the big island of Tierra del Fuego. There were seabirds to watch along the way, and the wind conditions were minimal, which was good news for the morning plans. When the wind is strong, it funnels straight down the fjord and buffets the shorelines of María and Jackson Bays. Today we hoped to land in Jackson Bay, part of the Karukinka Reserve, which is administered by WCS (the Wildlife Conservation Society).Soon after breakfast we headed for our landing spot and once we deposited our lifejackets, we took great care how we headed off on the various walks because there were a number of southern elephant seals right next to us.

Oct 19, 2017

Beagle Channel

This morning we woke up in a beautiful fjord, one of many in the Cordillera Darwin on the north side of Beagle Channel. The sky was mostly overcast, which is pretty typical in this area, but with sprinkling and a fresh powering of snow on the mountains. At the end of the fjord, Seno Garibaldi, there was the spectacular Garibaldi Glacier with the fjord completely full of icy bits, like a giant margarita!  This is a very active tidewater glacier with a snout in the water feeling the tide. After breakfast we took to our fleet of Zodiacs to make a tour and guess what?  It stopped sprinkling, there was no wind, and it was fun to slowly plow through the bits of glacial ice! Every once and again there was a blast of sound from the front of the glacier, sometimes ice fell, and sometimes it was just ice cracking.

Oct 20, 2017

Cape Horn

Today was a special day because we were able to land in mythical Cape Horn. A place with so much history related to sailors from the past. Even today, this is an area that challenges us. Luckily, the winds were in our favor and we were able to visit and walk on the southernmost point of Tierra del Fueg0. Cape Horn marks the northern boundary of the Drake Passage including where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet.

Oct 21, 2017

Bahia Franklin & Bahia Capitán Cánepa, Isla De Los Estado

Early this morning the National Geographic Explorer arrived at the the remote island of Isla De Los Estados (Staten Island). The island has been declared an “Ecological, Historic, and Tourist Provincial Reserve” by the Argentinian government and access to the island is strictly limited and only under special permit. We feel very fortunate to be able to visit this intriguing island that very few people have ever visted.After breakfast we headed ashore in the Zodiacs to a beautiful bay called Bahia Franklin, this was a true expedition stop as it was the first time any Lindblad ship had visted the area.

Oct 22, 2017

Cánepa Bay, York Bay, Celular Port and San Juan de Salvamento Port

A quiet night was spent at our anchorage deep in Cánepa Bay. Early in the morning the National Geographic Explorer weighed anchor and slowly headed out to sea. The rugged coastline with its many caves that work their way deep into the rock amazed those who had risen early. Lovely warm pastel shades light up the morning sky and in the distance to the south, cotton ball clouds brought a splash of color to the predominantly monochrome landscapes closer to the ship.Once out in the open a very different story emerges, strong winds greet us and the sea, as far as the eye can see, is dotted with white patches as the strong 40 knot gusts whip up the top of the small waves.

Oct 23, 2017

Isla de los Estados

Morning looks good! Yesterday, at the end of the world, it was a bit windy. That is how it is here, we work with nature, and it is not a tour. Yesterday afternoon the weather was not good for the landing we wanted. We could have skipped it, but instead we made plan “B”—wait and go the next morning. Which turned out to be a very good idea!

This morning is mostly sunny, the wind has shifted 180 degrees at our anchorage.

Oct 25

Dear Nancy,

OK we are back to my original writing and not that of the naturalists. Next Morning was indeed a good morning. Into the zodiacs and around a gorgeous bay. What did we find. A Gorgeous Emperor Penquin posing on the beach for us. Wow he was incredible. Great birds and an huge bull seal being guarded by his harem and a eagle. What a last adventure this was for me. Blue skys and thoughts of you.

Oct 26-28

We disembarked in Ushuaia early this morning. I said goodbye to some really great folks I met. Beth, Denise, Sally, Claudia and Barbara. They all were terrific and listened to my stories of you making the trip easier for me. Ushuaia  has changed since we were here Nancy. Bigger and newer yet still that small town on the tip of South America. This time I took a tour of the original jail and little museum. Quite fun for a little   place. Learned a bit about penguins and jailbirds. Then off to the airport to spend the night in Buenos Aires at the same hotel Sofitel that you and I had stayed on years earlier.
I had signed up to go on an extension to Iguazu Falls.
I downsized by packing in a carry on-all we were allowed. Checked out and checked bags to pick up when we return. Off to the airport. All this before 6AM. Guess what-plane cancelled but due to the hard work of our local guide we got on an afternoon flight. The bus returned and we jumped on to tour Buenos Aires. Kind of fun. Saw places I had not seen before including cathedral and Plaza de Mayo. Did see things we saw when we visited. Remember the park with the large stainless sculptures? Remember the antiques and arts section? Did not get to go back there but I can see you buying the belt and me the shoe form. Also the street tango. Great memories. 
Then off to Recoleta Cemetery. Guess what-Evita is still there and it still is very interesting. I believe some of the same incredible spider webs with silk as thick as pencil leads are still there as well. 

Here we are in Iguazu National Park staying at a hotel with the falls right out front. Wow. An evening waling around and then to bed. Up before dawn to meet our birdwatching guide. We did not get far before we started seeing incredible birds but my favorite by far was the toucans. Wow and several variety. Also met up with some raccoon like critters. Then we began our first walk to the falls. I can not adequate describe the falls. I can truly understand why they are considered one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The falls are on the border of Argentina and Brazil and can be experienced from both sides. We did Argentina. The Iguazu River feeds the falls. In this case falls is literal as there are 257 individual falls.
And an upper and lower set of falls. You can walk on metal grate walkways to both. The roar is deafining and the spray drenching. I could have spent days there. And birds everywhere. Hope you enjoyed Nancy. Easy to have a little cry missing your physical presence because my face was always drenched. Not a great place for pictures or glasses! Dinner in town. Then up early for one more falls walk and off the the airport. Pick up my bag at the Sofitel and off to the International Airport to wing it home. The end of a delightful trip. You were in my heart the whole way. And you were right-I could do it.
Love you, Sue