We made and arduous drive to Samarkand, for stretches, to say we were on a road would be an exaggeration. The trip reminded us of Mongolia driving except that we drove slower and were in a vehicle with shock absorbers. We also have an exceptional driver who went of his way to avoid the worst potholes and construction hazards. We made one stop at a master ceramist workshop. It seems like we are following in the footsteps of Hilary Clinton, because as with other stops, we always find her picture on the wall with the famous visitors. We seem to be hitting the right spots. The ceramics to be heavier, earthier and the glaze designs are specific to different regions of the country.
Before we get to far into Samarkand, we should talk about our final evening in Bukhara. We did attend the local dance, music and fashion show. The traditional music and dance reminded us very much of Indonesia dances we saw recently. The traditional costumes were ornate and quite lovely but was very striking were the contemporary fashions modeled by very thin young local women. Lots of silk, vibrant colors, and flowing design. Some of the pieces could be on the red carpet at the Oscars, they were just stunning.
We walked from the show on the square down several alley ways. Homes are behind non-descript walls dotted with double doors which enter into the courtyards of each home. We met our host and his family and were treated to a delightful dinner of Flov. A traditional meal cooked by men over an open fire in a large wok like vessel. They cook the meat in spices, add veggies, water and then rice. Sounds simple but it takes quite a bit of time and is absolutely delicious. It was our favorite meal to date. All meals start with small plates of salads to be shared at the table, soup and then a meat course. Homemade breads are a mainstay of each meal. It seems that there are julienne style carrots, beets, cabbage and onions in every salad. The soups are all different and each is wonderful. From pumpkin, to mushroom, veggie, rice based, and chicken, they are all homemade and would be a filling meal in themselves. Not only did our host cook us dinner, he shared his craft of embroidery with us. He learned from his grandmother and is a master embroiderer with works hung in museums and commissioned from around the world. He dyes his own silk threads using only natural dyes. We would love to have one of his pieces but have to save up. He teaches others the craft, including his children, and he gifted small pieces done by his family members on cotton. Like Kilroy, Hilary was here too.
This is a good time to tell you about Uzbekke homes. Almost all have a courtyard. The youngest son’s responsibility is to care for his parents. He and his family live on one side of the courtyard, his parents on another and other unmarried family members live there as well. The women share the shopping and cook in a common kitchen. Meals are shared in a common dining area. Houses are all thick walled with tall ceilings to help with the heat and or cold weather. Rugs cover the floors and shoes are removed before entering rooms. The ultimate authority is the mother and father who make all the major decisions. The customs of the country are built around respect for elders and their experience and knowledge. It is quite impressive our guide, Abdu, speak with respect about his parents and others who are his senior.
On the drive we passed desert, farmland and small towns. The government builds housing for farmers who get zero interest loans to buy their homes. Primary crops are wheat, mulberry, cotton, fruits and veggies. Uzbekistan is the fourth largest cotton producer in the world. They also have lots of natural gas, oil and gold. Many of the factories and mining operations are done in cooperation with other countries.
Samarkand is a city of 1/2 million people. It is quite modern in a quaint kind of way. We are staying on University Boulevard in the heart of the University. It is tree lined with sculptures along the wide boulevard.
Obviously more to follow we have three days in Samarkand to tell you about...If you did not check out the maps two posts ago, go check out where we are. Also I was asked to make a correction, the earthquake was in 1966.
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