Haida Gwaii, an archipelago just off the coast of British Columbia, Canada north of Vancouver Island and home to the Haida people .A very special trip to a unique and special place. This is the journal written by a fellow passenger-Sharon. I have added photos and comments in red. Enjoy
SUNDAY MAY 29th, 2022
A very early start to this new adventure!
Left from the South terminal at YVR on a very pretty flight to Massett. The beginning part was gorgeous- snow capped mountains on both sides as we flew over water., and then seeing the effects of logging….not so pretty…into Massett. A very tiny airport!!
And on to the land tour….a long drive to Taaw Tlldaawee Park. The drive was beautiful…the forest, the foliage covered in moss making beautiful shapes, water, ocean…and towering trees. We walked to two different locations on Taw Hill for gorgeous expansive views of ocean, beach, and forest covered in moss, trees making unique shapes as they had fallen and gotten covered in moss….and air so fresh and invigorating…hard to describe. The chatter of birds alternating with silence as we walked on this beautifully maintained boardwalk. And the two look outs…. Stunning views on either side of this hill. Apparently on one side, on a clear day you can see Alaska…50 miles away!! Although the weather was nice, it wasn’t that clear. Lots of people camping on the beach and Rose Spit…where apparently there is a lovely abandoned house. The beaches are long, sandy, curved….just stunning! Then went to the ocean, where if it were high tide…which it wasn’t…you can see the blow holes. The rocks there were lovely and striated….kind of reminded me of the Pancake Rocks in NZ. And from there you can see the sheer cliff of Taw Hill…weird that we climbed up there!
MONDAY MAY 30
Haida are either raven or eagle clan…and thy do encourage marriage between the two…in fact that is the norm.nThe other cool idea is how they view wealth….wealth is shown by giving to others- except if you have copper! But the idea of sharing what you have with others could be better practiced in the rest of the world. Avery from Cascadia and a Haida person explained the 6 totem poles- all made about 25 years ago. The museum was spectacular …gives you such an appreciation for the culture. And the realization that Europeans really did come and steal the land and what is even worse tried to destroy the culture just because they thought they were superior. Tried banning everything, of course, and off to residential schools, burn the totem poles- such arrogance. And like any oppressed people no matter where, the culture and traditions somehow survive and are now thankfully able to be celebrated and respected. The artifacts and stories were wonderful. Watched 2 videos – the one about the making and raising of totem poles, by, I think, Bill or Rick Davidson was amazing and very emotional….seeing the old grannies rejoicing and enjoying the culture they were denied as children and adults. And the pride of the younger generation to be able to gift this culture to their elders was really lovely. The other video showed the children learning their language and dances….also very lovely.
Sandwich lunch…but delicious cookies. Back on the bus to go to the landing to get on Cascadia. Once through the dreaded and terrifying covid test process, we got to our cosy cabin. Snack time!... crackers, charcuterie and nuts, listened to the welcome aboard chat. Beautiful area where we ae docked….surrounded by the mountains and forests, and in the distance snow capped mountains. Hard to believe how truly beautiful this place is. Apparently the land trip was all Northern Haida Gwaii aand now we will do the southern part and get to know the Gwaii Hannas National park ---too many confusing and hard to spell names! Dinner was delicious….spinach, strawberry and goat cheese salad, ling cod with a bacon and lentil sald/hash. Cheesecake with masacapone and cream cheese. General introduction to all the people….so nice to not have internet or “entertainment”. Just get to know and enjoy people!
TUESDAY MAY 31st
Writing this later in the day on the back deck….surrounded by water, mountains, old growth forest…it is magical. The sun is finally burning through the clouds and some of the mountains are swathed in mist….cannot believe how beautiful, serene and quiet it all is.
After cold or hot breakfast (Scrambled eggs, bacon and potato hash), it was time to prepare for our first excursion into GHNP. We had the orientation to the park – co managed by the Haida people and Parks Canada and Fisheries and Oceans. The Haida have Watchmen who supervise the various locations. Nice sense of respect, conservation etc…leave only your footprints behind. We went on shore at Tanu where there are the remains of 6 long houses. The area used to be a thriving community, then the good old whites came with their smallpox and superiority and of course devastated the community. Only 600 people survived. While we were waiting to land we went on a little “tour” on the tender, saw some eagles flying and could see the coastline with all the mosses and lichens. The sea kelp can pop and has aloe vera inside. The interconnectedness of everything is amazing- nature has a way of surviving and recreating itself so wonderfully without the help of human intervention which of course only messes things up! The onto land and exploring not only the forest but the different remains of the houses with Jessica as our very exuberant and lovely guide. The had to do the foundation in a day otherwise, I guess, it is bad karma. Everyone helps. The first house, I found it difficult to see how this could have been a house – by the 6th one, I could totally envision it! Houses of different sizes, now really overtaken by the forest, the mosses and lichens. And all surrounded by these amazing views. Jessica works on the island with hew uncle and watches over the land, gives tours, catches fish and chats to the tourists!
Haida culture is such a rich culture and has so much to teach us. As a matriarchical society the women are the real key holders, the story tellers, the ones who make sure the culture is continued on – even though the men are often the chiefs. And when they marry – always to the opposite clan (Eagles and Ravens), the man comes to the woman’s clan. Heard and saw 2 ravens – saw the birds of the 2 clans today!!! Hard to describe the eerie beauty of the forest – trees covered in moss and lichens, new growth, old trees tumbled down and forming a “root” for the mosses and new growth. The canopy is overwhelming. A truly moving and a new appreciation for Indigenous People, their way of life and what they can offer/teach us. Back to the boat for lunch- delicious tomato/ fennel soup and a fresh tuna nicoise salad – fresh seared tuna, potatoes, tomatoes, olive tapenade, beans (!!!) and ½ egg. It was delicious (minus beans and olive tapenade). The afternoon excursion was a short ride to an inlet where we could see and explore the forest floor. We picked spruce nettles for Jo, the amazing chef, interested to see what he does with them!. Saw a lot of bear scat – or so we were told- but no bears! Jeff explained the different types of moss – my favourite is the stair moss because it looks like stairs!!! And of course, old man’s beard which resembles Spanish Moss but is not nearly as long. The forest is incredible – covered in green from the moss which creates strange and wonderful shapes. There is this one tree that looks like a 4 backwards…how the tree grew such a sturdy branch which then curved upwards is a mystery.
And then we found (Jeff found!) a place where everyone just found an area to sit and be quiet- I sat on a moss covered log and just relished the forest silence- the sound of a nearby waterfall and birds tweeting occasionally. The silence was refreshing, invigorating, restorative…so relaxing.
Back to the boat and we are sailing through the archipelago – mountains on all sides, islands all covered in trees – some dead trees which is good as they create space in the canopy for the underneath and will lead to new growth. Walking in the forest has this other worldliness to it- like Lord of the Rings – if I knew what that looked like – but it is so different to anywhere else. I cannot believe all the natural beauty. It leaves me in awe and being detached from the world makes it so serene and peaceful, and a real break from ordinary life. I truly love it here! Me too. Currently cruising along Darwin Sound which is appropriate as this is Canada’s Galapagos! Jeff gave a talk on coastal biology – all the critters we might see in the tidal pools tomorrow – it’s meant to be low tide, perfect for tidal pool watching – all the sea urchins, and sea cucumbers and different types of jelly fish. As we travel south, the scenery is beautiful-it’s a strait so there is land on both sides.
WEDNESDAY JUNE 1ST
Breakfast.. today was Rancho Huervos…not my favourite….cold breakfast it was. Morning expedition was a visit to the beach in low tide to see all the ocean “animals” Jeff talked about last night. On the way….. a BEAR wandering on the beach…a real black bear just ambling along the beach! How exciting…my first ever black bear! Not my first but it matters not. Any sighting is exciting. What was very special is this bear was so very relaxed and healthy looking.
The tidal pools were amazing – going to the beach you could see all the different colours of the sea urchins. Then Jeff and Michael showed us all the bounty beneath the ocean- saw a moon snail…ugly actually but my favorite with its color that is the egg sac later shed… beautiful star fish – a purple one and a red “leather” one and also a black one that had hooked itself onto a dead crab. Saw all different kinds of crabs – including a decorator crab, spindly crabs, baby crabs, anemones, and a sea cucumber – that was amazing as the more it was out of the water, the more it grew! It really was interesting to see what was underneath the water – a rich bounty of life!
Back in the tender for a cookie – and underneath – the sea urchins and star fish particularly. Then we went for a little tender tootle in the shallows, just enjoying the inlet. The scenery is really wonderful. When the water was shallow, you could see all the colours. Back to the boat for lunch…spaghetti Bolognese, salad and focaccia bread. Yum! After lunch we did a tour of the galley and Joe showed us how to make balsamic beads …cool!
The galley is so well fitted – all the necessities in a fairly small space, very well organized. We were motoring along to go and see the sea lion rookery – and saw some orcas!!! A bear and whales on the same day – how lucky is that! They were fairly close so it was easy to spot their distinctive white markings. The one sighting seemed to be a mom and her baby.
Then onto the rookery – a few rocks in the middle of the water, covered in sea lions! It is mating season and we even saw pups – because the mother’s placenta was on the rocks, this had to be a new born and before you knew it, it is getting into the water – mainly pushed by its mother!- and it is not the size you would think a baby would be! Loads of seals honking and clearly some of the males were being territorial as well. Saw a whole lot of females in the water- looked like they were doing an aerobics class! It was pretty cool! After snack- cheese and crackers and smoked sablefish, we went on a beach walk. This was so cool – the beach is all pebbles but full of abalone shells particularly – we collected at least 50 or more and arranged them in a circle. (One day someone is going to see it and wonder what strange ritual it was!!).
saw some sea urchins and snail shells – very cool walk. The abundance of nature is astounding.
THURSDAY JUNE 2nd
Hot breakfast was a smoked cheddar omelet with potatoes and spaghetti squash and spicy sausage. Although the weather was pretty good, the sea has quite high swells so I think the day got a little messed around. Had to go the long way through around Rose Harbour. We are pretty much at the southern end of Haida Gwaii. Went to Laksana Inlet to do some beach clean up. I went on a long walk along the beach – it was low tide, and a beautiful beach – literally filled with empty clam/scallop shells. It was quiet except for the birds and whenever I came across water coming down, the babbling brook noise of the water over the stones – so peaceful and undisturbed, uninterrupted by human habitation. And then it was time to join in the beach clean up (the results of human interference!) Incredible amount of garbage that washes up – rope, plastics, bit and pieces, bottles – we filled 9 huge garbage bags!
Quite incredible. If we could have stayed longer we could have filled even more. Sometimes you couldn’t even dislodge the rope it was buried under so much sand or logs. We really do not take care of the ocean. Quite disgusting really. Did feel good to dop my small part in helping to clean up the beaches. It was actually sunny, and I was pretty warm by the end!
Came back for a delicious snack of cinnamon buns – very delicious! Lunch was good… although not my favourite… curried vegetables with naan bread and cucumber/ yoghurt salad. After lunch, Jeff gave a talk on how Maple Leaf has played a huge role in cleaning up the beaches along the Great Bear Rainforest = north of Vancouver Island. It really is eco based tourism and more importantly gave the crew a job during Covid. Pretty amazing how many tonnes of garbage they collected. And very distressing that it is even needed.
We were going to try and see puffins on Flat Rock but it was getting late so we sped off to Sgang Gwaay – the second of our Watchmen areas. This is on the western side of Haida Gwaii, not quite at the southern tip. This area is a UNESCO site because it still has 6 mortuary poles and the remains of a 6 log house. We went for a lovely walk along the boardwalk through the middle of the island – in 2018 a storm blew through and downed loads of trees so the forest doesn’t seem as thick as other places although still filled with mosses and is exceptionally beautiful.
Saw these big leaves…skunk cabbage! – and lots of ferns. Constantly heard the birds (couldn’t see them though…rather lovely! After the storm uprooted the trees they have found artifacts underneath – apparently even ossified dog poop!. This summer a dig will take place on the site because of the trees falling often included uprooted root balls 15 ft across in some cases. This will be the first archeological dig on the site. Can not wait to find out more. This was the home of the Kunghu Haida of Ninstints. This site took my breath away. It was tucked in a sheltered bay. The village had twenty houses and 300 plus residents at one time. What remains are mortuary poles where the remains of chiefs were placed in cedar boxes atop the poles. Also memory poles honoring those passed. It is Haida culture to allow the poles to go back to the earth thus it will not be too many years when just the memory will survive. In a book that describes the site the writer describes this site as one of the three holiest places in Canada. And Marius Barber says of the Northwest Coast Carvers, "Their genius had produced monumental works of art on a par with the most original the world has ever known. They belong one and all to our continent and our time, and have shown how creative power may thrive in remote places"
Nancy and I have always loved and admired Haida Art. This trip and the sites and engagement with the Haida has now added a great admiration of the culture.
We then had a tour of the houses area and those amazing totem poles. These were all mortuary poles and had been around for a very long time – they were partly intact – none had their tops anymore, and you could see the inside of the log. Apparently the person was like mummified inside. They have a 1 year mourning period and then put up a mortuary pole. And of course, the pole would stand in front of the house. The whole village faced the water – a lovely inlet. Saw a 6 beam house – and one of the gables was still attached. Remarkable well preserved especially considering the 2018 storm that we definitely saw the result of on the rest of the island. Walked back a different way – these forests are so magical and mystical. When we arrived at Sgang Gwaay it was sunny and warm, by the time we left it was overcast and starting to rain! Weather changes on a dime!
It was a bumpy ride back to the boat! Snack was fresh veggies and French onion dip. Had a lovely dinner…hummus and carrots – the carrots were parboiled which was interesting and arranged on the plate like the totem poles…pretty cool!
Then we had beef tenderloin with cauliflower and porcini sauce, mashed potatoes and creamed spinach. – all very delicious. Dessert was a take on smores…. Chocolate mousse with homemade marshmallow and some graham crackers like crumble with chocolate caramel sauce….very delicious!! Hard to believe there are only 2 full sailing days left …a truly remarkable cruise….really loving it and learning about Haida culture. Amazing, resourceful, wonderful people.
FRIDAY JUNE 3rd
Not a great day weatherwise but it didn’t didn’t stop us from doing anything. First rainy day…not bad! Hot breakfast was pancakes with stewed apples, chocolate caramel sauce and maple syrup, of course. Then it was time for a Michael lecture on the ocean, the make up of the ocean, the currents, the deep ocean – fascinating if a bit technical for me. The ocean is relatively unexplored and yet it contains multiple food sources – seems to me we should be exploring the ocean rather than bothering with space! Even though some would see space as sexy! Then it was time to go to the third watchman site on Hot Spring Island. We were on the first tender and when we got to the island, Simon and I got off in water full of kelp and rocks and we had to walk on slippery kelp rocks to get to the sand. David, the watchman, kept saying it was too dangerous, but we were too far to want to go back – so we carried on with Michael while the rest of the group went around to the other side of the island. And that meant we could get into the Hot Springs first and stay for ages!!! It was glorious! Unbelievable view and we lounged in the hottest one-107- and light rain was falling. It was not very sulphury
And was relaxing and calming, perfect temperature for me! The second one was way smaller and the coolest one – about 97- and the third was in between. Just like Goldilocks!! My favourite was the first one – which I went into at the end to warm up! I remember the hot springs in Rotarua – but this one was so nice because of the view over the Bay – stunning.
There weren’t really any houses or anything to see here as this was more of a healing place – I can see why. So peaceful and relaxing. We actually came across another group – weird seeing people – we haven’t seen people since we left on Monday!! It was because of that group that the second tender did not land – too many people and not enough time. Lucky we were on the first tender and got off first and didn’t listen to David!!! After we dried off, walked over the island which was very pretty – lots of little flowers which turn into berries – the salay berry jam that is out at breakfast. These are food for hummingbirds which are meant to be abundant on the island, but I didn’t see any. They are so quick, it would have been hard to see them. All that hot springing made me thirsty!! Came back to a lovely snack of date squares. Lunch was chicken karaage on soba noodles and poke salad. – very tasty! Then sailed to Windy Bay. Fourth Watchman site. We did a lovely forest walk with Jeff – not as dense as some of the other forests but because it was rainy the mosses and lichens were very vibrant – even saw some mushrooms. The highlight was a 1000 year old cedar tree…what a beautiful tree! It could turn any cynic into a tree hugger! There it was majestic in the middle of the forest.
It was pretty muddy too! Walking on all the moss is great – it is so springy. We crossed to the “other side” on a pulley boat…fun! The site was one of the sites where the Haida fought against and tried to protect from the logging on Lyell Island. There was the inevitable stand off except this time the Haida prevailed- in 1985- and this led to the establishment of Gwaii Haanis. Gwauu Haanis is a national park co managed by the Haida and Parks Canada. This unique partnership manages the park and the sea. As a result in 2013 the Legacy Pole was raised – the first monumental pole in Gwaai Hannis in 130 years! It is a true testament to the past, present and future. The Watchman – Roy- is a great storyteller so he explained it all and then showed us his carvings – unfinished- which both told stories about Haida mythology – naturally with ravens on them. He is hoping to finish a whole lot of carvings and display them in a museum, so the stories keep going- what a good idea! Oral history is such an important part of one’s heritage.
The other Watchman explained the Blinking House – it was built to house people who were protesting the logging, and if the logging company would have won, it would have been torn down. Very fortunately capitalism lost out and Haida culture could be renewed and strengthened. Again saw too many people – the group from this morning – they included people from Parks Canada and the Supt who is Haida talked a bit about the cooperation and successes it has led to – good to hear! Then a group of school kids arrived – school trip to camp- in the rain- on Windy Bay! One of the students was Avery’s sister! Back to Cascadia and a snack of smoked salmon and cream cheese and smoked sablefish…delicious! Then while we resumed cruising we went past this rock..basalt rock…on which were a lot of eagles! We saw so many of them – including up to 2/3 year olds who had not yet got their white heads. What a beautiful sight! So many eagles! Then it was cheese and wine time… Dinner was lovely- wild sockeye salmon with gnocchi and a gazpacho sauce – very tasty indeed. Dessert was a frozen maple nougat – delicious. Sailed into our mooring for the night…De La Beche Bay.. It had stopped raining so went outside to see how gorgeous it was. Saw a huge jellyfish just swimming around! What a beautiful area…totally surrounded by mountains, trees, serene and quiet – once again the only boat around! Another amazing, wonderful day ….hard to believe tomorrow is our last full sailing day. I have to try and remember the wonderful feeling of calm, serene, natural quietness and not get too carried away by what constitutes city life. Nature truly does restore one’s equilibrium.
SATURDAY JUNE 2nd
Our Last full day…..I truly cannot believe all we have seen, done, heard and experienced in just a few short days. A truly amazing experience. Hot breakfast was avocado toast, bacon and poached egg. And then it was time to go kayaking on De La Beche bay. Wow! This was stunning!
Not everyone kayaked, the rest went down the shore on the tender. Kayaking was amazing- just being on the water and going at out own pace was exhilarating and so serene. Saw a few waterfalls, and some that we heard but could not see. Saw some starfish – and a couple of harbor seals – very cute as they peaked up from the water to check us out – not sure they were impressed to share their space though! It was cool to track them for a while.
Wonderful rock formations and trees growing in funny directions. I guess we kayaked for about 1 ½ hours – it was so much fun. At the end we kayaked, on Polly’s suggestion, through the tunnel that the boat creates because it is a catamaran. What a wonderfully fun thing to do!
Before lunch, Michael gave another talk about ocean currents and so on. It really is interesting how it all fits in to the food chain and how we all survive. Lunch was a pizza party! Started with a delicious mushroom soup then a green salad with cherry tomatoes, feta and a lovely dressing. Three types of pizza- smoked salmon and potato, grilled veggies with goat cheese, and cheese and meat. I liked the veggie one best. By then we were in pretty rocky waters – despite that I went and mapped out the route we had sailed – big mistake to try and write/read in rocky waters! Couldn’t languish for too long as we were off to the final Watchman site at Skedans on Louise Island.
Yesterday, we were at Healing Island, today we were at Party Island!! There are a number of poles in various stated of disrepair and also Potlatch poles…there were a lot of Potlatches! The rest were memorial and mortuary poles. Didi was an amazing guide – her story was one of resilience and strength – herself and her family.
One of her grandparents was a residential school survivor and he learned to play an instrument and had all this positive advice for her. Her family were very strong and supportive. Her first marriage was abusive – when she came to the island after her divorce, her sons buried her in sand, up to her neck, and she stayed like that for two hours. When she emerged, she felt stronger and had found her voice. Really touching story. She is so soft spoken but clearly loves the land and her heritage. Her current husband, Eric, is from the Island and is not Haida, but twhen they married, her aunt adopted him and gave him the name Grizzly bear. He loves the land and culture so much, hard to believe he is not Haida. Saw a black tailed deer ( on numerous occasions, so it may have been more than one), lots of hummingbirds and eagles were flying over constantly. Apparently there were woodpeckers but I never saw them. Lots of lovey bird noises though. Stayed on when some others went back, and had a nice walk along the beach, relishing the calm, serenity and spirituality of the area. You can really feel something special here.
Very fancy dinner…tablecloths and all! First Captain Jeff toasted the crew with champagne – it really is an exceptional crew. Dinner was delicious – sushi with scallop and spot prawn – delicious!- a crab and halibut cake with a little fennel salad, roast lamb with sausage, butternut puree and polenta. Dessert was a jelly filled donut – the salal jelly which is nice because it is not too sweet. What a fabulous meal! After dinner, Jeff showed us the video he put together of our trip – wonderful video! His camera has a great zoom so it was a real close up of the bear and the seals. –especially the new pup and the mom’s placenta. And then the mom literally edges the pup off the rock, and then takes it in her mouth and plops it into the water! You’re on your own kiddo!! For the first time there was a beautiful sunset. Overnighted where we spent our first night at Kitson Point in Cumshewa Inlet.
SUNDAY JUNE 5th
Early breakfast included an apple brioche which was delicious…as we sailed towards Sandspit…..
Michael gave his third lecture mainly about climate change – however there is some hope that the ocean will be able to regenerate in time but we do need to decrease the pollution for sure! Last meal was brunch….Eggs Benny with smoked salmon, potato pancake, somne asparagus and kale, which I declined,. And then it was time, sadly to say goodbye, and take a tender to the dock – on the tree was an eagle and a juvenile eagle – thought it was an owl at first, but it was an eagle! A trip that will always stay in my mind –what a profoundly moving, spiritual, regenerative and amazing trip. We were also fortunate that we were a very cohesive group and everyone got along really well. It was raining in Sandspit so it was a very long, very boring wait at the airport.
The peace and tranquility quickly disappear when back in the hustle and bustle of life….
Author Sharon and Simon
Special thanks to all staff and crew for all they did to make this a very special trip.
Thank you for sharing your wonderful journey. I felt at peace just reading it. Karen
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