Iceland and Greenland with Lindblad 7/21 to 8/8 2021

Getting ready for my trip with Lindblad Nat Geo on their new ship. Picked up Chinese tonight and this is a photo of my fortune from the cookie. Boy is it right. I will be sailing on the Endurance, her maiden voyage with passengers. The maiden voyage was originally scheduled for over a year ago but covid got in the way. And my original trip on board was to be a Artic exploration but due to Covid it got cancelled and this trip put in its place. 

Endurance is a fully-stabilized vessel of the highest ice class (PC5 Category A), she will enable adventurous guests to go where few have or can. Endurance’s most striking exterior feature is her distinctive profile, the patented X-Bow®, a game-changing design that guarantees the smoothest, most comfortable ride in all kinds of conditions; and since it eliminates bow impact, a quieter ride, as well. An equally impressive feature may well be her capacity: she carries just 126 guests, a commitment to expedition excellence over scale. Scandinavian-inflected, luxuriously appointed, her inviting interiors would be a destination in themselves. Because she is a Lindblad expedition ship, however, her attention is focused on the world outside—with acres of window glass to keep you connected to the stunning views beyond the pane, and a fleet of expedition tools to get you out exploring.

 Day1

The excitement builds as I head to the airport for my first adventure since the start of the pandemic. WHile I am a bit nervous I am also confident that both I individually and Lindblad have taken every precaution to make this a safe adventure. And I am so very excited to be on this inaugural voyage of the Endurance as we head off to circumnavigate Iceland and visit Greenland.
Plane ride was a rapid 6 hours with arrival easy. I meet two folks from Stillwater who are on my journey. Easy to spot each other with the Lindblad NatGeo tags. Then off to a downtown hotel for a rapid COVID test and an hour or so rest in our room. Bag breakfast. The airport is 45 minutes from downtown Reykjavik so we got to see the sea as we proceeded downtown. Most of Icelands population is in the city or the three suburbs. 
After a little rest and all ok COVID test we gathered for lunch. This set the tone for the trip. Eat, eat and repeat!!!!! A nice cod lunch and off to our buses for a short city tour and then to the ship. 

And what a ship she is! All spanking brand new. We are greeted by the officers and board. In our rooms we find a pretty blue jacket to commemorate the inaugural voyage. Shortly thereafter we don our jackets and go shore side for a short ceremony. Sven Lindblad, son of the founder and CEO speaks about the dream of this world class ice breaking ship. We are introduced to several luminaries. Then comes the traditional champagne breaking on the bow followed by champagne all around. We then board to begin our journey. AND the really good news is Cathy and George in front of my very eyes. I met them on previous voyages and quite enjoy them. This is our third trip together.

Day2 July 23

Sunrise 0406 and sunset 2259.
After traveling all night we arrive at Flatey. But before I speak about Flatey I need to speak to the ship. She is gorgeous. All the public spaces are large and comfortable. I will put a section of pictures in my album just to give you a sample. All the dining spaces have huge windows. Tables are comfortably spaced and good in size.
The Ice Lounge where we have our meetings and lectures, cocktails and hordeuvres is lovely and filled with screens and tech so everyone has the best. The upper deck library and casual dining is full of art, technology and comfort including a fireplace, maps etc. Outside are two igloo’s to sleep or lounge under the stars, two hot tubs, fire pits and on and on. A gym, hot and dry sauna with full glass walls to outside. A spa. Our rooms are quite comfortable. I have a single with a lovely shower and a balcony including a hammock. Life is good.
If you have been on an expedition ship you know the Zodiaks are the heart of how you travel to see what nature has in store. Getting them off the top deck into the water by crane is always a challenge. This ship has a garage inside near the water level for parking that makes entry into the water quick and easy. And the area where we get in and out is wonderful. A nice locker for each of us to store our wet and dirty expedition gear is great is nearby.
So now lets get to the reason for us being here-Iceland. 

Flatey awaits. We do an easy wet landing(means we exit zodiacs into water with out waterproof boots). This island is one of the largest of the thousands of Islands  in Breioafjord and an important trading post in the Middle Ages. A monastery was founded here in 1172 which made Flatey the center of culture and education in Iceland at the time. The monastery was moved to the Snaefellsnes peninsula but the cultural influence of Flatey continued into the middle of the 19th century. The church that still stands was built in 1926 and features a mural by the artist Balthasar, a Spaniard who held Icelandic citizenship. Jesus is depicted in an Icelandic sweater. Jesus and he others were actual farmers on the Island. The scenes are the local area and the people of the Island. The hamlet which developed on the island is mostly still standing with the houses renovated and used for the summer. There are two farmer residents here year round. Behind the church stands a tiny library which once contained the book of Iceland. A replica is kept there now. That’s another story. A Bishops from Denmark came to retrieve the book and take it back to Denmark. The book was written in 1387 and the bishop gave it to  the King upon return to Copenhagen. It was placed in archives of Copenhagen. It was returned to Iceland in 1971 but not to the Island.  If you are a local you can check out a book. It really is a library.

July 24th Sunrise 0323 Sunset 2305

When in Iceland and you say it is a long day you really mean it. Almost 20 hours of daylight to watch the sea go by or walk on your next Island. We arrive at

Grimsey. A northwest Island off the coast of Iceland about 25 miles from the mainland. The Island is basalt (volcanic ash) with a tiny part sandstone. Steep cliffs are the name of the  the game. It lies on the Arctic Circle but has a mild climate and supports enormous bird colonies. Once we make out wet landing wherein my big old boots I hop on a little bus that takes us up the steep road to the top of the Island dropping us at the Arctic Circle. How cool is that!!!

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Next is a hike to the cliffs  which were we found a large population of Atlantic Puffins. What a treat. Iceland is home to more than half of the worlds entire population of puffins. Puffins lay a single egg in holes they did into the ground and both parents take care of the chick. Puffins also alternate the direction of the fish in their beaks-head tail- so they can get more in. Smart little birds.

 Puffins everywhere bringing food to their dens for the young.  And then there are the Arctic terns who dive bomb and peck your heads. They assume you are there to attack them so ……

It was a great morning. Now back to the ship to eat more and enjoy a afternoon of lectures on photography  and meet all the folks ie naturalists, photographers and cultural experts. And we begin our journey taking us to the mainland.

After another delicious dinner we land at the small town of Husavik where we are going to visit a waterfall and geothermal area with clay fumaroles. Fuma what??  They are holes found in volcanic areas where hot gases and vapors escape. They are similar to what is found in Yellowstone including boiling mud. 

Iceland  has 99.96 renewable energy supply. About 89% of the homes are heated with geothermal and most of the hot water in homes comes from geothermal. Iceland is made up of magma and lava and snow. Fun to walk around the fumaroles.

Then onto the bus and off the one of the most Iconic waterfalls in Iceland, Gooafoss.

 

I have been to this area on my first trip to Iceland with Nancy. I am flooded with those memories as I enjoy the walk up to the main falls. I was in with Nancy it was in deep snow and lots of ice. The falls is stunning in any weather but much easier to walk up to it this time of year. It is about 11 and getting dark when we get back to the ship. A treat is up in the Ice Lounge but I head off to bed. A great day.  Back to the ship where we will be heading to Skalanes Nature Reserve where we will land in th early afternoon to explore the diverse wildlife and birds. A whale sighting as we made our way.

July 25th.

A great breakfast started this lovely Sunday morning. Then off to a lecture my National Geographic Photographer Nick CObbing. Nick discussed the one road to being published in National Geographic Magazine. Nick is a good speaker, a charming fellow and a great photographer. Enjoyed it very much.

Then came a announcement that we all were requested to attend a meeting in the Ice Lounge. My stomach turned. This was a first all hand on deck request. I said to Cathy that this could not be good news. And it was not. We were advised that a person on board had shown symptoms of Covid, been tested and in fact had Covid.  They had done close contact tracing and about 10 folks were going to be isolated. They  had contacted Iceland Authorities and would be getting further advice. In the meantime we would not be landing in Sklanes.  The Iceland Authority has advised that anyone in close contact was to be isolated in their room for seven days. Guess who was on the bus to the waterfall with the ill person. Iceland says that was close contact. That is right-me! I should say that the person infected is dong well at this point. If not in isolation others can still participate in zodiac trips, self guided hikes etc. We had decided not to take the chance of exposing others on shore. 

Next step was to wait for further direction  So we steamed into a Fjord and dropped anchor. We would wait there for 24 hours for a nurse to board and do a covid test on the folks with covid. Iceland wanted a test by someone approved by them. Then we wait for results By now the wife of Covid one had symptoms. 

This started my days of having meals set outside my door. And the platform for pics was now my balcony. Here are a few.

July 26

By mid day the results were back. No surprise-Covid. Our instructions were to return to Reykjavik where the two covid folks would be taken to an approved Covid hotel where they would stay for 14 days. Those deemed close contacts would be confined to our rooms for 5 days minimum. Then a local testing company would board to test us. At this point and after much thought the decision was made to cancel the balance of the trip. Now this all seems easy but the back and forth and negotiation with Iceland Authorities was exhaustive just to get this far.  The goal was always to keep the passengers, staff and crew safe. 

July 27

Endurance is back in the outskirts of the city at anchor. The well passengers get tested and are free to head home which most do over the next 24 hours. Then there is us in isolation. We are kept entertained with lectures from the lounge broadcast to our tvs and lots and lots of food. Me, photos from the balcony and in the room. Me thinking that I will never see Greenland. Darn. But remembering that so far I am well. Thank goodness.

Spent an afternoon watching Iceland's newest volcano vent ash. The plan had originally been to take a helicopter the last day over it to do photography. Oh well at least I got to watch is huff and puff. It started in March and has been named Geldingadalir. The scientist believe the magma is coming from a place very deep in the earth and are excited to study it.

So this is my room as taken from the balcony door. Not a lot of room to roam but home sweet home.

July 28-29th 

Gazing out the window. My company is my stuffed polar bear who is also gazing out the window. More great food at the door and .......

We learned that we can be released once we pass a covid test on Friday. I have a reservation on a flight at 4:45 Friday.

On Thursday evening Iceland Health comes aboard and does the most invasive covid test EVER. Both nostrils and throat. Yikes

July 30th

Final  breakfast and lunch. Off to the airport at 1PM. Plane boards on time and off we go. Flying business and only 3 of us up there. Yea. And watching out the window I get a glimpse of a Fjord in Greenland full of icebergs. Closest I will come this trip

This is the e mail I wrote home to family and friends who we first got word of what had happened.

Greetings from the Lindblad National Geographic Ship Endurance. I thought it best to write you to let you know that you may be reading about the ship in the news. Why, you say? Well two days ago we had a passenger test positive for COVID. Before I go any further I am just fine as are 99 percent of us. We all have been tested and the only other case to have developed is the spouse of the first case. And yes, we ALL are vaccinated and we all had negative PCR tests within days of boarding and a quick test the day we landed. All negative. 

We are following the CDC guidelines unless Iceland is more stringent and then Iceland.

Lots of details you do not need to know at this time but happy to share later. Heading backing to Reykjavik where the two positive cases will be sent to a quarantine facility for 14 DAYS. Those of us who are considered in close contact are now in quarantine in our rooms for 7 days. Because I was on a bus with the couple I am in quarantine. I am allowed on my balcony and all meals are delivered. I am comfortable and safe.

My only wish is that those infected get well.

I will let you know if something significant changes otherwise do not expect to hear from me until I get home Aug 8th or sooner if that happens.

Cheers,

Sue

Thoughts from home:  

Lindblad Nat Geo did an incredible job keeping us safe and informed. And they are fully refunding trip and airfare.

I will travel again with them on the Columbia River in Oct and can not wait.

Stuff happens no matter how careful you are but make the best of it.

I never want to be in prison!!!!  The food would not be as good.

You do not need a lot of clothes when confined to your room for a week.