SPAIN’S NORTHERN COAST & BAY OF BISCAY
I am doing something a bit different. On this OAT trip our leader Michael Jones kept a diary with highlights of the trip. With his permission I am using his diary, adding some of my notes and adding photos. I hope you enjoy it.
May 3rd – PRE-TRIP - MADEIRA
Arrival (mostly) from USA
A very long day indeed!
After what must have seemed like an interminable journey for some, you finally arrived on the beautiful island of Madeira.
Some of you had caught an extra day on the island and had more time to acclimatise, dealing with any jet-lag more effectively.
Travelling from the airport, you caught the first glimpse of preparations being made for the famous Madeira Flower Festival. What magnificent floral delights were in store, you wondered…?
Fortunately, the Melia Madeira Mare Hotel managed to have all rooms ready and there was time to settle into your rooms and recover from your journey across the pond.
Michael took most of you around the outside of the hotel and pin-pointed all the important outlets and places that you might need to visit, not least an abundance of restaurants that offered a plethora of possibilities in terms of international cuisine.
Then it was time to prop up those drooping eyelids and join in the fun of the Welcome Dinner at “O Lagar” restaurant. Apparently, ‘lagar’ means a wine press and you discovered that there was plenty of wine to impress! Some of us managed a taste of ‘Poncha’, a local moonshine potion with a definite kick. After a couple of these, some of you were speaking fluent Portuguese! The real winners of the evening were the espetadas. Succulent pieces of meat, char-grilled on an open barbecue and dripping in garlic butter, add to these some delicious maize cakes and the evening was pretty well complete. Except, of course, for the local folklore dancers. Energetic as they were, the length of your journeys to Madeira, began to take their toll and a good rest was now top of the menu as your hotel beds beckoned.
On the return journey, our guide, Nina, treated us to some modern-day Fado singing much to the delight of all.
4 May
Feeling well rested and having regained your strength from the exigencies of the previous day’s travel, you hit the breakfast buffet with aplomb. There was a vast array of choices for all. Add to that the sight of a falcon being trained by the poolside, this was already turning into an interesting morning…
Nina took us around the city of Funchal, delving into some of its back-streets and historical aspects, giving us a smattering of knowledge that would help us understand Madeira and its people. During our tour, we looked into a chapel that was being restored by Jim, a very lively chap who was 70 years young, with an abundance of energy for his task and life itself. He certainly enjoyed his task which was to restore the Dutch paintings. He definitely made you smile. Then you visited the market and chatted to some stall-holders who were only too willing to let you sample a vast array of exotic fruits…as long as you bought something! Michael’s mango is still languishing back in the fridge at Madeira Mare Hotel! (Help! “Will somebody please eat me!!”) Whilst at the market, we met a man who showed his prowess in de-scaling black scabbard fish; a job he had been doing for 40 years and had learnt from his father who had picked up the skill from previous generations…
After some free time in the older quarter of Funchal, amongst painted doors and aroma-filled restaurants, some of us met up with Michael who took us up to Monte by cable car. Many braved the thrill of a Taboggan ride down the hill. Propelled by two burley sled-pushers, for want of a better word, each toboggan made its way precariously down the hill in what seemed to be a very directionless manner. At one point, when the sled he was sharing with Lee was virtually propelled into the air at a cross-roads, Michael grabbed the first thing he could get hold of: Lee’s knee!! Sorry Lee!
The evening was yours and many of you returned with stories of excellent meals and restaurant experiences.
5 May
Today was a scorcher! The weather was fantastic and the sky so clear: excellent conditions for fantastic photos and extraordinary views across the mountains. This was a day when you discovered more of the beauty of Madeira and how the island had evolved over the centuries. You visited Camara de Lobos, Winston Churchill’s favourite spot for painting and you met the local ladies who were preparing the floral costumes and tributes that would be seen later at the Flower Festival Parade.
Lunch was served at Porto Muniz, a distinctly unusual location that was an ideal setting for all.
On your return, most of you braved the crowds and watched the Flower Festival parade. ‘So many people; so many floats; so many flowers! An abundance of colour and children all singing and dancing and celebrating! Superb!
The evening saw some of you sampling Fado singing up close and personal. For some, it may have seemed far too “up close! The owner of the restaurant, who sang so passionately with what Michael described as a “lived-in voice” also paid particular attention to some of the pates of the gentlemen in our group!
Nina, the guide, also sang for you and introduced her fiancé to all. He was an ex-professional footballer who was now running a real estate business in Madeira. From what was deduced, it seems that the property business is booming on the island.
6 May
Another day in Paradise! Another chance to explore the other side of the island and its customs. Apart from visiting what turned out to be not the best-kept secret in Madeira, The Whicker Factory, you went higher still, up to about 5,000 feet above sea level and visited a genuine dwelling in Santana. Your host, was most welcoming, especially with his home made coffee poncho and biscuits!
Lunch offered up a delicious plate of black scabbard fish. What could top this? Perhaps a walk along one of the levadas? This was a real insight into how the island keeps so fertile and watered. You also came across the healing properties of the lichen and fungus of the Laurel tree.
Back down to the hotel for a final night before joining the Base trip in Lisbon.
7 May
Having been furnished with boarding passes, the check-in formalities at Madeira airport went smoothly. This was after we arrived at the airport and were momentarily stuck behind a van that had broken down. Maggie pointed out the irony in that it was an Airport Maintenance van! Fortunately this did not prove to be portentous.
On arrival in Lisbon, most of you managed to have early access to your hotel rooms. This was a day to explore around the hotel and get to know what was available in Lisbon. Although raining, there were still plenty of possibilities.
8 May
‘An early start and a sampling of the delights that Lisbon had to offer. Yes, it was raining but the amazing architecture of its most prominent buildings and monuments still impressed. Tiago, our guide, was humorous and informative. His passion for his country and its history was really inspiring and it became clear that his attitude compelled you to find out more about this part of the world. As the rain persisted, coffee and cover, along with Pasteis de Belem became the order of the day as you decided what to explore next. How about lunch? Many of you tried out some local food and later went on learning and discovery trails. Some up the funicular railway to the top, checking out the Church of La Rocha and then walking back to the hotel.
That evening, you sat down to dinner and welcomed new arrivals to the Yellow group with warmth and bonhomie. Michael gave an outline of things to come and pointed out some guidelines that would help towards the enjoyment for all.
9 May
Today you explored more of the areas surrounding Lisbon, Sintra and Cascais. The Palace was immense and imposing, with interesting commentary from Tiago. Such concentration demanded refreshment. How about a taste of Ginginha in a chocolate cup? After some free-time, you piled back into the coach and went off to find lunch at a local restaurant. The dessert also consisted of some Fado singing from a lady who certainly went in for dramatic make-up! After the singing, you were keen to find out more about Fado and its origin. Michael acted as interpreter and it was amazing the lengthy answers that came from just a few words from the Fado singer. Must have been telepathy!
The evening continued with your exploring local restaurants and preparations for the next chapter.
10 May
With the weather improving, Michael devised the itinerary so that you could enjoy some time to visit the Commercial Square without rain and then onto the Alfama District; an area that had survived the earthquake of 1755 and that still held the historical references to Moorish times.
Finally, MV Corinthian was yours. Welcome aboard!
All smiles were ready for the camera at Reception and yet those boarding cards that followed always seem to turn out rather differently….
The first taste of lunch on board the ship. A buffet array of variety and sustenance that would surely last at least until dinner…or would it?
What was very plain to see, right from the start was the extremely warm welcome given by all the crew. They were there with their ready smiles and eager to tap into whatever preferences anyone had. In no time at all, they would be understanding exactly what you preferred, how to cook it and serve it with consistant goodwill.
Cabins
Safety Drill
Probably one of the only compulsory activities on board the ship and one that the Captain insists upon for everyone’s safety. The safety officer read his notes accurately and outlined all aspects of emergency procedure. I wonder whether many of you tried not to fall asleep here? Then it came to fitting the life jacket. There were some notable struggles until it was discovered that these life jackets were back to front and the problems were quickly remedied. All good fun…
Michael gave us a port talk on Porto with a slightly musical ending
So you set sail for Porto, with welcome cocktails and a 7 course dinner to keep you going.
11 May
The weather was becoming more favourable and the days brighter. Porto quickly revealed its charm and character to all. Irene guided us around the best and the most scintillating sites. Not only, St Francis but also, the Clerigos area which proved to be a great hit. As the sun blasted down on us, we took refuge in an unusual restaurant called Flor Dos Congredaos. The setting was indeed unique: up two flights of stairs with the kitchen a further flight up, on the top floor. A building that was hundreds of years old but thankfully the chef was not! Although you might have wondered given the timing. Michael gave a hand to speed things up and when the food eventually arrived, it went down very well – almost as well as the wine! When you finally left the restaurant, one of you revealed its closely kept secret: a sign outside that read “Traditional Slow Cooking”
Next: the Ferreira Wine Caves: an opportunity to taste the local port wines and see just how good they were. Cynthia came along too and was treated to a helter-skelter ride on her “walker” down those very cobbled streets…
This evening you were introduced to Captain Tino, who proved to be a very engaging man, charming and dedicated to the absolute safety of his passengers and crew.
Ali delivered the port talk on Vigo and you sat down to dinner looking forward to what might unfold the next day.
12 May
Combarro proved to be a delightfully sleepy fishing village that eased you into the day gracefully.
Later Galician minstrels played and danced for us with some great traditional tunes that had us all tapping our toes.
Michael gave a port talk about Santiago de Compostella and yes, he sang at you again!
13 May
After docking in La Corunna, our focus was Santiago de Compostella. Once again, we had the pleasure of Gloria as a guide and she gave a valuable insight into ‘The Way’ and the religious significance of the pilgrimage. Finally, you arrived and saw many who had completed their journey. Some were clearly ecstatic, some plainly relieved. Others were only too eager to share their experience.
Don Camillo was our lunch venue. This was an excellent restaurant with great choices for everyone and a very friendly service.
14 May
Ahoy there sailors!
A whole day at sea, taking it easy but also taking it all in.
Michael gave a lecture about Brexit and some important background to the entire issue. Without stating the obvious, nothing appeared entirely simple but at least some grey areas were cleared up and apparently, Michael did not send everyone to sleep! Although no solutions were found, hopefully, some significant historical facts were divulged that may have provided a better understanding as to why the Brits are in such turmoil. The again, perhaps not!
Ali rendered some of her poems and revealed a rare talent for inventing prose at break-neck speed.
Christoffe gave a very quirky outline of French customs and un petit lecon en francais.
Our chef also gave a cooking demonstration which proved popular.
Karaoke Rules
Many came and a few sang. The crew stepped up and we had renditions from the housekeeping team, the catering corps and the front office. Notable performances were made by all especially Sinatra sound-a-likes. Ali was in her element, Michael was a poor second and Christoffe, quite sensibly, kept a safe distance.
15 May
Land ho!
At last, we entered the waters of La Garonne. As the mighty bridge opened up to you, MV Corinthian anchored right in the very heart of Bordeaux. What a magnificent city! You were treated to a panoramic tour of the city and an opportunity to walk its streets and soak up its atmosphere. You met Isabelle at the Musee des Beaux Artes and she let us know exactly what she thought of the Gilet Jaunes as well as President Macron. It soon became obvious that neither were on her Christmas list. Many of you enjoyed the market place and sampled some of its produce. Some stayed ashore and tried the local food
A French Buffet Dinner was served followed by music from Saul in the bar
16 May
Today you went into the Bordeaux countryside, past the vineyards, visiting a typical French chateau where you got completely chateaued. Not really. The surprise was that you were all entertained by the Marquis and Countess of Roquetaillade, who organised a menu with a distinctly duck theme along with a very interesting and informative commentary on the chateau, its history and its idiosyncrasies.
Christoffe delivered a Port Talk on La Rochelle and the Captain was on track for arrival in La Rochelle the next day
Liars Club
Quite a number of you went to check out The Liars Club. It was great fun to find out who was stretching the truth and who was actually telling the truth. Ali was compere for the evening and the rest were all liars – some of the time!
17 May
La Rochelle beckoned and you answered the call. In the morning Francoise showed us around and her excitement was quite palpable. She enthused about the history and also about the architecture, even introducing us to a local stone mason who was working on restoring the main Town Hall building.
The evening saw entertainment provided chiefly by yourselves as you took part in the ship’s version of French Fairytales. Thanks for being such good sports!
18 May
Your first tender experience on the Corinthian as it anchored off the harbour at Douarnenez. Nothing could have been simpler…Ha!
Back to the ship for afternoon Tea; a delicate array of cakes and pastries with fruit scones, jam and cream,
Michael gave his port talk on Mont St Michel and, of course, sang once more.
After dinner, you were treated to the crew show and a selection of scenes and sketches that revealed a very different dimension to your cabin staff, servers and barmen. How could you ever be able to see them in the same light again?
19 May
And so, to the jewel in the crown of your itinerary: Mont St Michel.
As it loomed over the horizon, Mont St Michel’s imposing silhouette invited you all to come closer. Many braved the hike up the steps and toured round the abbey and some explored the lower parts. You also got to meet some of your brave boys from back home: a US Air Force team that were in the area training for your 75th celebrations. Harvey was recognised as a veteran who fought in the 7th Infantry during World War II and was presented with a special coin to commemorate his role.
20 May
Very sad to say goodbye to MV Corinthian and such a caring crew. They had all made such a sterling effort to make everyone feel so welcome and comfortable. But the story was not yet over. There was still time to enjoy London
Michael started out by taking a look at the royal family, Prince Charles and then, rather more controversially, the relationship between Charles and Diana and Camilla’s role in the whole ‘affair,’ if you’ll pardon the pun.
Michael put forward an alternative viewpoint about Charles, offering a more balanced account of what actually occurred, sifting through the mis-directions of the press and identifying some home truths.
You stopped in Chiswick and were treated to a pub lunch of fish and chips. A great energy boost for the afternoon that was to come.
Stuart was your blue badge guide for the Panoramic Tour of London and what a sheer delight he was. Not so much a guide, perhaps more of an artist with his hilarious portrayal of London, Londoners, the royals, British idiosyncrasies, mixed with a welter of historical information that was extremely enlightening and entertaining.
Finally your arrival at the hotel was greeted with rooms that were ready and a chance to rest up after such a long day. Not only that but you were all on the Executive Floor.
With an evening at leisure, some of you hit the restaurants in Katherine’s Dock, others went to the theatre or net up with friends.
21 May
In the morning, Michael invited you on a Learning and Discovery tour of London’s East End, revealing many of its much darker aspects: Bethlehem Royal Hospital, for example, the lunatic asylum that gave rise to the brutally apt word ‘Bedlam’. The struggle of the poor in this area and the inevitability of their turning to crime; the plight that ensued between those who sought to enforce order and those who considered themselves above the law; secret drinking dens; Henry VIII’s army training ground; Jack the Ripper’s last sighting; Scenes from Harry Potter and Diagon Alley; the workhouses and finally Brick Lane and latter day street art: a very different side of the city of London as it continues its process of gentrification.
Ali took some down to Greenwich by river boat, giving the opportunity to check out The Cutty Sark, The Maritime Museum, Naval College, Queen’s House, Market and its fabulous parkland. Not to mention The Trafalgar Pub…
Back to Tower Bridge in time for tea and making plans for the rest of the day. Some hit the theatres, others the local restaurants and many just relaxed a while to soak up the local atmosphere that could be enjoyed around South Bank and the area surrounding The Tower of London. The excellent weather was still holding: amazing!
22 May
Today, some of the group went to Windsor Castle with Christoffe, enjoying yet another insight into the privileged lives our royals appear to lead. Others stayed back in London, exploring local sights such as The Tower, taking river cruises and venturing into more central areas to visit venues like Churchill’s War Rooms: a real discovery and fascinating revelation of how things were during the most crucial period of World War II. The London Eye was also popular and many enjoyed our great museums.
Later, at a gathering at the Dickens Inn, which was festooned with a bounty of beautiful flowers, you had your farewell dinner.
Your Trip Leaders wrapped up the trip and of course, Michael sang at you for the last time!
And so, to bed, where we retired to finish packing for the homeward journey.
23 May
Sad to say, we have come to the end of this diary of highlights. Let’s hope that you all have many more memories to add to this mix and cherish for years to come.
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