We learned alot at the Mongolian National History Museum. Went through the history of the country era by era. Met Ghengis Khaan and his family and saw the expansive mongolian territory they conquered--up into Poland, down to Cambodia and west into Roman empire. Their armies moved in groups of 10,000 including families, herds and possessions. When a major attack took place, they could come together to form an army of up to 100,000. Each warrior had 3-5 horses with them so as not to exhaust any one horse on any one day. The whole thing was quite remarkable. Mongolians love their horses today as they did in the 1200’s. One room was full of beautiful tribal costumes and hat. Sue wanted to bring all the hats home. The last room showed the history of moving to a democracy, first freedom from China and then from the Russians. A socialist country until the 1920’s and then communist until their first president was elected in 1990. Education is compulsory and land is free. Nomads/herders pay no taxes but salaried workers do.
Keeping with a Mongolian theme, we had lunch and the Grand Khaan Irish Pub!! Need we say more.
The Gandantegchenling Monastery is the largest working monastery in UB (Ulaanbaatar). In 1938 the communists destroyed 900 monasteries and killed the monks or forced them to join the army. In 1990 after the democratic revolution Buddhism began to flourish again. The monastery includes temples, libraries, colleges and schools. They are building a new statue of Buddha, of which the feet are the only part completed--they are 6 feet to the ankles. The Japanese are funding the project.
Our pre-dinner show was the National Academic Theater performing folk songs and dance. Absolutely stunning. Costuming as well as the music and variety of unique instruments and voices coupled with great dance from different tribal backgrounds. Sue’s favorite was the hats and the throat singing. Can’t explain that one.
OFF TO THE GERS
Friday morning we departed by bus to drive Khogno Tarniin Els to spend our first night in a ger camp. The area is a long strip of sand, brought the winds, and stretching from the Gobi to the central regions. The expansiveness of the land and sky is breathtaking. No trees, wind is blowing constantly and gers and herds dot the landscape as far as you can see. Some rain last night provided a glorious double rainbow.
We visited a local nomadic family, a woman and her two grown sons have 6 gers and 1000 head of cattle, sheep, horse, and goats. While the gers look tiny from the outside, 17 of us were in there comfortably to talk with the owner and learn about her family and life.
Dinners at the gers are westernized mongolian, meet, rice, potatoes tomatoes and cucumbers, various sauces which Sue and I do not get since we are allergic to garlic and get sauceless or mild sauce meals. The first night we picked through the garlic dinner and then they brought us each a huge plate of pork instead, we had enough to share and appreciated the effort they make to accommodate us.
Saturday off to Khogno Tarniin Els- where we went to Kharkhorin, the ancient capitol of the Ghenghis Khaan empire. Stopped at an ancient sculpture on the way in, placed on the hillside between the village and a monastery. The monks used to sneak out at night and travel to the village--to shame them the Lama of the monestary had a granite penis sculpture placed in the pathway. The night time travel stopped.
The town is smaller now, with one of the oldest, and now preserved, monastery built in 1580. The town is mostly permanent wooden bungalows with some gers scattered about. The older generation prefers gers while the young generation wants houses. There are some brick homes and each plot of land is surrounded by a high fence. Blue and red tin roofs dominate the city landscape.
The monastery is surrounded by a wall and 108 stupas. 108 is an important Buddhist number. Quite beautiful and active with monks and locals coming to worship. Three temples make up the restored portion and a ger and a tibetan temple are used today.
The preservation project has reclaimed wall art that was intricate and colorful. The rooms were original used by four monks who chanted together around a fire with left soot over the wall paintings. Silk art and tonga paintings abound.
Sunday morning we climbed to he top of a hill to see the past and present mongolian empire depicted on huge curved walls of stone. Then we took off for a long day’s drive to Khusti National park. The landscape was gorgeous, green green green with huge rolling pastures and sometimes granite hills and outcrops. Dotted everywhere were herds of horses goats or cattle. Today’s landscape was highlighted by the blue, blue sky and the Georgia O’Keefe clouds.
A beautiful and gently friendly dog joined us for our picnic by the side of the road. Sue made a bargain with him, wait patiently and we would reward him. He obliged and had a virtual feast of meat pies. The portions are far too generous for us. Several horses with foals stood off to the side and the cattle was off in the field. 4 hours to go....
The national park is home to the Takhi horse (Przewalskii horse). It is an ancient wild horse that was near extinction and has been reintroduced to the area.
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