Mumbai, India

Spent two full days in Mumbai.  Not a surprise to any of you, it was hot, packed with people, lots of pick-up cricket games on the street, cows, hindu shrines and flowers.

First day we went to typical sites--Ghandi's house/museum, shopping, a Krishna temple, a museum and hanging gar dents (built over a reservoir) and saw the victorian buildings that make up old Mumbai--note to mention a Bollywood movie viewing. We enjoyed the Hari Krishna temple, our temple guide was from New Zealand and was honest and open in his discussions with us.  The temple itself was beautiful, welcoming and clean with many deities, golden alters and decorative floors and walls.  Men and women sit on opposite sides of the temple to pray and each person repeats the Hari Krishna chant.  This was among the more memorable temples we have visited.

We went to a Cineplex that could have been typically American--popcorn, pop, and nachos.  Then there was a baked potato stand and Hindi food as well.  The Groods 3D was playing as well.  Many families were headed there.  We went to see Bollywood!!  It was in Hindi though every so often a few words of English were thrown in.  We got the gist of the movie in spite of no subtitles and yes they do break out in song and dance throughout.  The movie lasts 3-4 hours so we saw 40 minutes.  They are end happily since people do not want to spend hard earned money to be sad or challenged.  Good fun was had by all.  Nancy wanted to dance during the musical scenes, but Sue would have been embarrassed.

Much of the architecture and gardening in Mumbai is based on being a part of the English empire.  The gardens had sculpted topiaries--giraffes, elephants and carts with bulls pulling them.  Flowers were pretty and it was a site visited by Indian tourists as well as our bus loads from the ship.  Next to the garden is the Zoroastrian or Parsi burial site.  Quite interesting.  They believe that cremation or burial pollutes the land so bodies traditionally were left to the vultures to devour.  The last vultures died from city pollution several years ago and crows and kites take too long to accomplish the same task.  The Parsi's now use solar panels to speed the decay.  Bones are kept together in a central pit.  The priest and body carriers are the only ones permitted in the funeral area.  Famous Parsi's include the Tata family of commerce fame, Freddie Mercury of Queen and Zubin Mehta.

The Ghandi house, as expected, is quiet simple with a large library and small sitting/study room.  Walls are full of historical photographs and letters.  It is always amazing to be in the presence of places that have historical importance and whose occupants have made a significant contribution to society.

The museum was large and un-airconditioned so our visit was shorter then it might have been.  We were quite taken with the ancient sculptures of various Hindu deities.  We also enjoyed seeing miniature paintings with distinctive Indian themes and styling.

We ended our visit with a trip to the state store selling quality local crafts, clothes and jewelry.  This is were Sue purchased antique jewelry and a rug during her first visit to Mumbai.  We bought a blouse this time.

Back to the ship past the street cricket games.  Sunday provides space relatively free of cars for play.  Relative being the operative word.  Power nap before heading out to Mumbai at night with dinner.  Back past many of the same buildings and the beach lit up for night and packed with people.  Once the sun goes down, people come out to visit, eat, and have fun together.  Night cricket is played by lights on the various fields.  It was 11:00 at night and there were more people on the beach than you would find at a Twin's game.  This is truly a family friendly time.

Dinner was in a traditional Indian restaurant.  We learned that most Indian restaurants in the US are run by Pakistanis or Bangladeshis.  So this was unique for many.  The food spicy so Sue and I were cautious.  Many said this was the best Indian food they had ever tasted.  We can't tell was we ate, though curry, mint, lamb and chicken were main ingredients.  After dinner we went to the City Gate and saw many lit up horse and buggies made of silver.  That was a unique site and made for a colorful evening.  We saw the "Queen's Necklace,"  the lit-up main road edging the semi-circular bay.  Back to the ship for a short night before a full day tour the next day.  Cricket is still happening in the streets.

Day 2.  Past the same sites to begin our tour, cricket is now in the alleys as there are more cars in the street.  Our guide says it is a quiet morning but we would not have called it that.  Turned out that a general shop strike had been called by one of the political parities so there indeed was a bit less traffic.  We learned this at a local fruit, veggies, meat and fish market.  We we enthralled by the sites and were enjoying our walk when everyone began to close up shop.  Lots of discussion as some were not happy about the strike so we left quickly just to be on the safe side.

Different temple experience today.  A different Hindu deity where they make offerings of flowers, fruit and milk which they pour over the statues and rub into the statues as part of their prayer.  Several people rang bells as they entered.  This was a very old temple, 100 steps up (or in our case an old lift).  The clock in the lift said--"It is impossible to study on an empty stomach!"  A billboard in town professed "In a safe city, every day is women's day"  Two good sentiments.

We went the Portuguese part of town, also one of the only Christian areas.  Beautiful small old homes being threatened by developers wanting this prime land.  We visited a home and were treated to tea and sweets.  We toured the upstairs office/studio of the owner who is a designers.  Beautiful art collection and his robes and saris for the wealthy were stunning.  Back downstairs for a sari tying demonstration.  5 1/2 yard of material fit all sizes of women, pregnant or not.  We were all impressed by the flair that one strip of material can create when expertly folded and draped.  We found some boys playing cricket, of course, but this time we were able to test our skills as well.  sue and I both had hits though Sue's went farther and impressed the young chaps.


Back to the same restaurant for lunch,  but we found a dish we liked very much this time.  Not sure what it was but the flavor was mild and sweet.  Again, people liked the meal and we were full when we left--can't go wrong with rice and naan and our good dish.

We asked to do a bit of shopping.  Most went to the state store and we went across the street to roam the market.  Had fun seeing this is the daylight as we had walked through quickly last night.  Bought a few souvenirs and returned to the bus.  We came upon a yearly parade/ritual and took our guide by surprise.  By the way, did we tell you she was a bit of a feminist, told us what she really thought and we had a good time with her.  She saved the milk at the temple to give to a child on the street, she thought they would need it more than the god.  Just a sampling of her attitude.

Any way, the parade was a once in a life time experience for us.  Usually seen only in National Geographic.  This Hindu sect believes in self mutilization  as a form of penance for prayers that are answered.  They pierce their cheeks as put 15 foot poles through them, weighted by rocks on the ends.  People walk with them to pour water in their mouths along the route.  The hardest for Nancy to watch were the men with hooks in their backed attached to carts or cars that they pulled along the route.  Our guide explained all of this but was clearly distressed.  She said, "this was not on the itinerary."  Next we turned left to get out of the traffic jam and ended up in a slum, this was not on the itinerary either.  She explained that not all living in the slums were unemployed or poor, rather the cost of real estate is so outrageous that many have no choice.  The kids are likely to go to school and they have their own health care facilities in some of the slums.  But all houses had a satellite dish as we have found in many countries and slums.  A study has shown that cable t.v. has reduced the birth rate in poor areas--now there is entertainment.

Off to the city museum which we thoroughly enjoyed.  Miniature scenes of life in Mumbai mixed in with ancient city related artifacts.

Two days as sea, we needed the rest.  Played bingo today for the first time--quit laughing--the prize, uncollected, was $1000.  Now we have to play next time to see if we can win.  We are in the Arabian sea, soon out of pirate territory, as we head to Muscat, Oman.  Then we go through the Straits of Hormuz to the Persian Gulf and Abu Dhabi and Dubai.  Can't believe we are nearing the end.