A Visit to Sydney and Aboard the Regatta doing a Southern Cross Cruise Circumnavigating Australia
December 14 2017 to January 23 2018
Dear Nancy,
Another journey is underway. Promise being kept. I would rather have you here in person and not just in my heart. But to quote the Captain of the Regatta (I will explain later) speaking in his german accent, "This is not vhat we can control". And to quote me, So it is.....
Back to Australia I go. Remember our trip a very very long time ago. And remember how we got here. We had planned a trip to Arizona by car. I was at work and someone asked me where I was going on vacation. I replied Australia. They said how you getting there. I said driving. They laughed and said you can not drive to Australia . My reply, who said Australia! I said Arizona. No was the reply, you said Australia. When I got home that night I told you the story and we said almost in unison, Australia sounds good. Lets go. And so we did to Australia and New Zealand. The start of many a journey for us. And then I returned to Australia often in the last 5 years of my career as I had an office in this incredible country. So now I go back to see old friends and to see the entire coast. Yea.
Sydney-Dec 14 -
Flying and arriving Sydney Dec 16. Across the date line and on planes for many hours. Still arduous. But always worth it. I arrive and off to the Four Seasons in the Rocks at the foot of George Street. Much to my surprise George is under construction and has been for 2 years with many more to come. Light rail and a remodeling of the Central Business District. Managed chaos. Glad I am staying where I am but makes it difficult to get around except in the Rocks and on the Quay.
Walked and looked and relived many a good memory including you and I Nancy. Also that of the Cuna Mutual Staff. And many an hour with Paul Treinen living in Sydney on our behalf as we engaged in the sale of the company. I will always be grateful to Paul and CMG Aussie Board and Staff for making a tough situation bearable. Anyway I was able and thrilled to meet Karen and Karla and spend a wee bit of time with them. Karen is a true inspiration having battled cancer and won. She is also one heck of a fine human being with a great family. She was the CEO as we sold the company and did a heck of a job. And she became and remains a good friend. Karla, head of HR, had no kids when we last met. Now she has 3 lovely daughters and brought one to lunch with us. I really enjoyed meeting Grace and seeing Karla.
I also had a great lunch with Michael, our former CEO. Michael is a good bloke who has found peace with himself. He is pursuing a business dream and I am happy for him. Nancy, he bought lunch and it was great sushi.
The rest of my time in Sydney was spent visiting the places I loved like the opera house, theaters, Queen Victoria Building. And yes I got a little pre Christmas shopping in for me. Nothing like Christmas trees and decorations when it is 90 degrees plus and G'Day is the operative word.
Lots of memories including our McDonalds story came flooding back. Sydney changes little and the people remain warm and wonderful.
Dec 20-22 Tasman Sea
Time to board the ship and off on this adventure. Easy peasy to get to the Regatta in her berth at White Harbor. Sailing time was scheduled for 6PM. I was in my room at 3, clothes put away and ready to sail out under the Sydney Harbor Bridge and past the Opera House. Nancy, this is where I feel your absence in a very concrete way. Packing and Unpacking. What a mess I make of it. Too much and forgetting other things. Where were you my dear!
Anyway as I was unpacking the sky darkened and the rain came with a vengeance. It was black black black. Then came the lightning and ka boom. Lights out and Houston we have a problem. Announcement that we are experiencing issues. 6 became 7 and 7 became 8 which became 10 and the 1 AM and we are still in our berth. A tug finally appeared but I can no longer stay awake so to sleep I go. When I wake up at 6AM we are at sea. BUT we are now told we have electrical and issues. The PA is finally fixed working well enough to give safety instructions so we could leave but many issues remain. Plus we are so far behind we will spend less time in Brisbane and will cancel our stop at KingFisher Bay Fraser Island. Dang it.
Dec 22-Brisbane.
I will not be able to get to Steve Irwins Australia Zoo. I was looking forward to the croc show. So with my tour cancelled to the Zoo Why you say. We got the late start due to our problems so adjusted our schedule to skip our first stop at Kingisher Bay on Frasier Island and then got to Brisbane way late. So I took the shuttle downtown and walked around looking at Christmas decorations and old buildings. Boy can you tell the Aussie's are connected to Britain by the architecture. Oh yes and I did get a little shopping in where I found my Christmas greetings I could post on facebook and here
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Brisbane is the Capital and biggest city of state of Queensland. Its a very modern metropolis that is on the Brisbane River and not far from the sea. It has a large healthy economy and is listed as a very livable city. Back to the ship and off to sea we go.
Dec 23rd and 24th on the Coral Sea.
Dear Nancy,
Christmas eve on board the Regatta. You and I have sailed on her in the past. We also have spent a Christmas on board a Oceania ship. While we are having extra time at sea we have caught up with our schedule. The ship is decked out just beautifully with decorations everywhere. I have not mentioned that Rick and Nita Luis are on board. It is great to have their company. I tell everyone that Rick married us and Nita is a good long time friend. Nice to have those stories to share. The ship is quite comfortable . My cabin is on 6 kinda mid ship forward. Easy staircase down to the show room and casino. Up to 10 on forward elevator to Horizons. Bar and dancing at night. Yummy cakes and pastries. Tea in afternoon. A place to sit and watch the sea. Deck 5 has the boutique and main dining room midship. Deck 9 midship the pool, bar, and aft the Grill(Best hamburgers ever), and the Terrace Cafe where we used to love to sit outside and eat. And I still do. Think of you each time. And as you know Oceania is known for their food. That has not changed. Main dining room on 5 where Nita and Rick eat often with me joining on occasion. Then there is Toscana and Polo. Great Miso Sea Bass. Since I am in tour mode I should not fail to mention the lovely library on 10 aft and the spa, salon, and workout facility on 9. My back has been bad so I have been spending lots of time in the spa.
Christmas even I get dressed up and off the dining room with Rick and Nita after listening to the ships officers and some crew sing Christmas Carols on the Grand Staircase near the Ginger Bread Village. Quite fun. I do love Christmas music.
Dinner was lovely with prime rib or Christmas goose. Lots of courses but I will stick with one or two. All too rich for me. Remember the lobster and steak available each day. Nothing changed. And each day some special meat or theme. Suckling pig, beef wellington, sirloin roasts, pork roasts, lamb etc etc etc. Not to mention the theme food ie Mexican, Indonesian, Greek, Japanese etc etc etc..
While on the subject of the ship let me talk about what else goes on. Nightly entertainment is a lovely string quartet of violins playing each evening before dinner and sometimes at evens. Then there is nightly shows including a on board troop, then singers and musicians and comics that come on board to play one or two nights. Some great some good and some, well some. The there are first run movies and enrichment lectures. If you care to there is the normal bingo, bridge, trivia, mini golf, ping pong, etc etc etc.. Also needlepoint groups and other groups. And for those interested in the hard ship facts Regatta is 592 feet long with 83.5 beam and 19.5 max draft. Delivered in 1998 built in France. Max speed is 20 knots. 11 decks and holds max of 684 guests. We have few less than 600 on board. Oh and most important-crew of 400 from 45 countries.
Dec 25 Christmas-26-27 Cairns and Coral Sea
We arrive at Cairns mid day on Christmas. It is a hot day with 90 degrees and humidity to match. As one would expect not much is open this day. But it still is a great days to get off and visit the city that is situated on the Great Barrier Reef. Nancy, I found the new aquarium was open. And it was quite good. Lots of corals and lots of great fish with good explanations of all. AND air conditioning.
Now its time to walk home. Oh, the casino was open but I kept walking. Probably the largest place in town. Walked the promenade that circled the downtown. Lots Nice sculptures, seawall, and parkland. Family picnics abound. Then I came across the the city pool which is a beach, fountain, wading and swimming pool. Full of laughter and holiday joy plus welcome relief from sweltering heat. Boy, I wanted in!!!!!!
Back to the ship past the city hall, library and other buildings. But what was that racket. Look up and find trees full of huge bats. I had seen something similar in Sydney when I visited for business over the years. There they are, hanging in mass. They are known as flying foxes. At around 5PM they take to the air in a large cloud. You could see them from the deck of the ship-a flying cloud of foxes.
The best part was as I was looking there was a little girl standing there with her bat purse swinging it around as she chatted with the bats overhead. I am sure they were answering.
Up in the morning and off to a snorkel tour of the Great Barrier Reef. Nancy I am very nervous given this is my first snorkel without my snorkel buddy. Yes you are with me but I need to see you!
Off on a boat with many others for about an hour out to a dive platform on the reef. It was quite controlled. A large area is market off with ropes and there are floating squares for lack of a better description anchored throughout for you to come up and hang onto. We each were given a full body lightweight suit including head, hand, and foot covering. Not attractive nor fun to get on but I am so happy to have it as lots of jellyfish. Like thick with jellyfish. Oh dear Nancy maybe I should not go.
Chicken-move forward please. Great platform to walk down and sit up to your waist, put on your fins and slide off to start. Took me a bit to get all adjusted. Once again images of you dancing in my head.
Then off I go. Way way cool. I forget I am scared and just enjoy the corals and fish below. And the jellyfish I am pushing aside. My highlight was a giant giant clam. Lots of the corals are bleached out and dead but I did get to see enough to make me want to keep going. Sea stars and pickles. Fun. One jellyfish sting on the lip but not bad at all. More like a electric buzz. OK time to be done. Swim up on the platform, turn over and sit down. Easy peasy. Fins off and up the stairway to have a great lunch. The platform is huge with picnic tables, bathrooms, viewing cellar etc. Then onto the glass bottom boat for a view outside the snorkel area.
Now its time for me to snuba. They would have taken beginners diving but I wanted to try snuba.
On goes a heavy weight belt, walk down a few steps into the water and they lower a diving helmet onto my shoulders. Glasses on and under I go. Weightless as I walk out where I am introduced to various critters holding stars, pickle, cucumbers etc. Very cool. Take pictures of Nita Luis who is trying this adventure with me. Fun Fun Fun. A great way to end a visit to the reef. Wish I could see more but time to peel this skin off me and get back on the boat to return to shore. Thanks Nancy. Your confidence in me rang in my head. And you in my heart.
Back to the ship. Onward to Papua New Guinea
Dec 28-29 Alotau and Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea
After a day at sea we arrived at Alotau. A small town on Milne Bay we are here to primarily visit a few villages. We ended up at one.
Very poor and under developed yet lush green and full of hope. Hot hot with small buses that were not air-conditioned except for one-mine. Others had rusted out floors and torn up seats. They had warned us when we signed up to go ashore. We ended taking a long ride to one village that had set up to greet us and show us a way of life. We were on the water so breezes cooled. Great people. Showing us how and grew sweet potatoes, betel nut and somethings I could not figure out. Lots of fruits. They weave baskets and make skirts from palm leaves. They carve wood and make small boats. I talked with one women who proudly showed me the necklace she got to allow her daughter to marry. Yes, it still works that way today. We met the kids full of laughter and joy and the little ones not really sure about us. They fish, hunt pig and eat crops they have grown. Its one for all and all for one. Share wealth or hunger. I quite enjoyed the afternoon. And also respectfully and repeatedly turned down betel nut. A slight high come along with the red mouth and teeth from chewing this stuff. And it is chewed by adults and children alike. Can not help but wonder.......
Our guide shared with us how the tribes have been turned from hunting each other and what goes with it to Christens. It is not all that long ago and there are still tribes that live in the mountains that have not changed. Still a Few left. He also shared a culture where 800 plus languages are spoken and until recently little written. Ownership rights to land is done by where your ancestors are buried and not in deeds or written form. If you can not prove where they are you have no right to the land.
This island country is very culturally diverse and has only been independent since 1975. Less than 20 percent of the population lives in cities. The landscape is rugged with volcanos, mountains, jungles and circled with coral reefs. Primary School is required in the city . Per capita income is 3000 or less but outside the city most just live off the land. Another observation, no birds. Why, they are hunted and eaten. Much more to learn and more to explore. And then there is Port Moresby.
A bigger city and the capital. But full of crime and drugs. Extreme wealth of a few and poverty for many. Headquarters for mining, oil and palm oil companies. Not a place you should be walking around. We had a tour and once again it was not what it should have been. Our guide in our bus which lacked air did not speak much english and had never done this before. He spoke so soft you could not hear him when he did speak which was rare.
Anyway our first visit was to a small village right out side the city. Surrounded by water it was full of houses of wood and metal. Some built on stilts over the water. We were welcomed as we drove in by hellos everywhere . A bustling place as it was preparing for the social event of the season. A wedding.
Part of the dowry was evident-huge bunches of bananas. And the wood being gathered to cook the 50 plus pigs. I was told by a women who I spoke with for sometime that this wedding had been saved for for over 10 years and would cost around 150,000 New Guinea dollars. Over 500 attending. She lived in the city but was there with her mom for the wedding. The party was already starting.
I roamed freely and engaged with many. Most spoke english and were happy to chat. One of the passengers had brought stickers for the kids so thanks to him we were all a big hit. As you would expect sanitary conditions were lacking and garbage was everywhere. Yet I felt safe.
Nancy, it reminded me of the neighborhoods and villages of Cambodia.
Then we were off to a model village out in the country. Polar opposite. Clean, organized, sanitary and a large Anglican church as the center of the community. They met us in native costumes and did dances for us. They were still celebrating Christmas so games for the kids and fun for all. Yet the people were the same as the other village. Ready to engage and chat. I did think the kids were a little less naive here.
The end of a delightful day.
Dec 30-31
Cruising the Coral and Arafura Seas
Sea days are full of food, movies, games, naps, casino etc. Me, I do the movies and try hard to manage the food to just over too much. Some days the sea is rough and some days calm. Some days hot and some days not. So instead of commenting on each sea days I will just tell you what sea we are on. One other note. We cross several time zones with hour changes and one 1/2 hour change. After we go north, west, south and start back east the time zones will go back until we hit Sydney.
Jan 1 2018 Darwin
Dear Nancy, A new place for me. Capital of the Northern Territory (150,000 or so population)and on the Timor Sea. A pretty little city built on a bluff with lovely beaches below including a nude beach. Hmmm-don't think the locals would appreciate me visiting . Also while it is
hot and very humid but swimming in the sea this time of year is not good as sea is full of deadly box jellyfish know as stingers. So my choice is to head the territorial wildlife park. Spent most of my time looking at crocs and walking thru flora and fauna. Also in s aquarium and great nocturnal house. But the highlight was the bird show. Quite interesting with hawks, eagles, demonstrating their hunting and food seeking skills. All birds found in the territory and all free flying and quite beautiful. Loved the eagle breaking a hard shelled egg by using a rock and shooting it at the egg with his beak. Each of these beautiful creatures has keen eyes and sharp claws.
Jan 2 Cruising Timor Sea
JAN 3, KOMODO ISLAND, INDONESIA
Who would have guessed I would return to this tiny Indonesian Island to view these pre historic creatures. The Island is quite beautiful from a distance with deep canyons, craggy mountains and rainforests. Its green green green. As I walked the same trails and saw the same very little waiting to get to the dragons I remembered our visit step by step. Unbearably Hot and humid so you could not tell my tears from my sweat. The Komodo Dragons seemed smaller to me but never less scary creatures. Saw a total of five. Few pics and back to the ship after running the gauntlet of the local market.
Found out later that a few folks went snorkeling with private guide. They said it was incredible. Darn.
But that evening leaving the Island we were accompanied by dolphins, flying fish and a gorgeous sunset. Wow.
Jan 4-5 Bali (Benoa) Indonesia
We made a mad dash for shore driving the ship full speed all night so we could get our first of several medical emergencies on shore. Detached retina. We were met by ambulance. Person is better and back on board. Phew
Remembering the last time we were here together. We had the most fun looking for a Harley shirt for my brother and at a dog rescue place. This time was much much better. Day one I did arts and crafts. Our guide was quite informative. I had forgotten that Bali in a mix of Hindu, Muslim, Christian and Tao. So one temple after another. Some very very ancient, 1000 plus years, and some very new. But all the inhabitants co existing in a peaceful environment. The other striking thing about Bali is the wonderful artistic ability of so many of its inhabitants.
Stop one on the arts and crafts tour was a Batik Factory at Tohpati. But only after our bus broke down and another had to come rescue. Our sweet driver parked us in the shade next to one of the beautiful rice fields. Anyway, I though I was not very interested but quickly became enamored with the processes and gorgeous results. Some were large stamps Some were small pipe like instruments. In both cases the design was sketch on the fabric by hand and then wax applied. Also some were free hand and original. Then dyeing the fabric. Then scraping wax off and applying other color etc etc. Then the cloth is boiled washing to get wax totally out.
After watching came buying. Just a scarf but I could have gone crazy. Oh yes and a pipe like instrument. But most special was the worker who took my ball cap and did a free hand design on the bill for me. Love it.
Next stop Celuk, a village where half the folks living there are doing silver or gold. A quick demo and then shopping. Just a tiny piece.
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| wood carving |
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| Wood Carving |
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| Wood Carving |
Next was Kemenuh village, center of woodcarving. Wow, could not have imagined what and how they could carve these gorgeous works. Everything from tiny to huge towering pieces. Teak, ebony and other local woods are used. Nancy, this would have been your favorite. You loved wood and each piece here was special. I bought just a simple little Buddha to remind me of you and the place.
We also stopped in Bona at a bamboo place but I must admit I stayed on the bus. Not much interest.
We also visited Peliatan Village Art Cooperative which is full of painting. You name the subject and they had it. Modern, Balinese, Hindu epics and stories, Etc Etc. It was huge and overwhelming. I restrained myself but kind of regret not finding a piece for Arizona. Oh well. Another time perhaps.
Bali Day Two Jan 5
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| Sue in rain at Batuan Temple |
Day Two was some of the same and some different. Once again we traveled thru the countryside to visit different areas. When I speak of villages it sounds like there may be wide open spaces between. Not really. One runs into the other with rice fields wedged in everywhere. Each house has its own temple so as you are driving you are seeing these unique little temple with statues of gods etc. And then there are the million places making those gods and temples along the road side. A real treat for the eyes. That really is Bali-a treat for the eyes.
On to the ancient temple Batuan. It is over 1000 years old. Intricate buildings and amazing place. Even in the rain that came. Ran into Rick and Nita. We are not often at the same place at the same time but I am enjoying having them on board. Fun time.
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| Barong Play- |
Next stop was the Barong Traditional dance show. The Barong is a mythological animal representing the good spirit and his friend the monkey. Rangda is a mythical monster representing evil. Lots of action Lots of myth with tigers, and men and dancing girls who represent the servants of Rangda. Way too long to explain but almost of fun.
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Ancient God-Black and White Represents Good and Evil
Jan 6-7 Timor Sea and Indian Ocean
Once again being on board during sea days can be fun. Also can be relaxing. Also fattening as you eat and eat and eat more. Nancy, I am not nearly as good without you on board. Less salads and good stuff and more desserts. More hamburgers because as you know Ocean grill has the best burgers in the world. I am stick to the morning routine of fruit and yogurt you taught me. Now why don't I do that at home? And Nancy I am collecting more seas this time out. Tasman, Coral, Arafura, Timor, Indian Oceans,. Also did the Australian Bite and Bass Straight. Your in my heart so I think you get to cruise them as well. Hey, I just learned that Gary Tradewell, and old friend and husband of Karen passed away. Remember I told you I stood up for their wedding with Greg. Anyway, find him in heaven. He loves to dance. One of the favorites is the Stones ....Hey you get offa my cloud. The vision of you two dancing to it on a cloud makes me happy. Gary was Karens soul mate so I really know what she is feeling right now.
Jan 8, Exmouth |
Oh dear-I forgot to mention I went to Key West in Feb to visit Jim and Deb on Blue Skies. It was a terrific week. Warm and with good friends. What more can you want. AND I saw the star they added to the Blue Skies in your memory. You will forever sail with Jim and Deb. And I am forever grateful to them.
May May May-What a month it was to be as I got to meet Tommy, son of Leslie and Scott Wertz and our great nephew. He is beautiful and full of love and laughter. I think he must glow in the dark as he is so full of happiness and love. And he is so loved.
