Oct 9, 2017
Dear Nancy,
You made me promise to travel and I have been doing just that during this past 11 months. Mexico last December, a attempt at Lisbon and the Coasts of Spain, France and Portugal. Someday I will explain my shortest attempt trip but not now. A trip to Alaska with my brother and Charlie as we had planned. And now here I am in South America finally having decided I can attempt to blog again. Can you correct my spelling from where ever you are these days?
You will be familiar with this trip. It is the one we were leaving on when you got your surprise diagnosis. Fly to Santiago and proceed down the Chilean Coastline to Ushuaia. The fly to Buenos Aires and on to Iguazu Falls. It's that National Geographic trip called “Rounding the Cape Chilean Patagonia and Argentinas Staten Island plus Iguazu Falls.
Flew to Santiago on an overnight flight via Atlanta. Uneventful. Met at the airport and on to a lovely hotel in downtown Santiago. Room was not ready so sat around for many hours before heading off to city tour. Walk around city square hearing a bit of history and folk tales of Chile. The city is surrounded by the Andes. Spectacular. City is large and modern. Chili had been blessed with a stable economy for many years and you can see it. But without a doubt is earthquake country. It dominates most discussions. A short visit to a small museum with loads of pre-Columbia pieces. Then back to the hotel and into my lovely room. Nice dinner in the hotel restaurant before heading to bed as it has been a long 36 hours. Bags out by 9PM and wake up call at 4AM for the charter flight to Puerto Montt where we are to board the National Geographic Explorer.
Easy flight and we are here. On board I check in and meet up with my luggage in my room.
Nancy you would like this room. It is a single but spacious and comfortable. One deck up to dinner and two from the bar. Perfect! One deck down to the mud room and the computer center. We board the zodiacs from the mud room. Easy Peasy. Lovely library and lounge up top. Have not been to the chart room or bridge but will go later.
The normal fire and safety drill takes place and we start to meet the Captain and his crew.
Captain is from Germany and is quite a funny fellow. Plus engaging and bright. That's a first or do you remember differently?
Not long and our first meal starts. Food is plentiful and good. One never goes hungry on this ship. The expedition leader is Lucho from Ecuador. Dennis is the doctor. Remember him? He gave you the shot and saved you when you were so so very sick on our Baja trip. He remembered me. Only wish you could have said hi in person. Anyway, seven naturalists and a few photographers and divers. Plus the most delightful speaker by the name of Yolanda Kakabaadse, the President of World Wildlife Fund. No surprise that all the staff is delightful.
I remain a bit nervous about this trip. How could I do this without your encouragement and hand. Who would I tell about what I had seen and felt. As I was unpacking I continued to have my doubts. I glanced out my window and what did I see. Off the side of the ship was a boat named Nancy. Thanks for letting me know it was ok to go and that you were with me. I got the message. I bet there is no other Chilean boat named Nancy.
Bedtime after a very nice dinner with nice folks. Sam and Good night,
Love Sue
Tuesday Oct 10,2017
Dear Nancy,
Today finds us at the Castro- Chiloe Island here in Chile. Chiloe Island the the Chonos Archipelago are a Southern extension of the Chilean coastal range, which runs north and south parallel to the PacificCoast and the Andean Mountains. Castro is the capital and is on the east side. The west side of the island is rainy and wild, home to the worlds few temperate rain forests, the Valdivian temperate rain forest. The city of Castro was founded in 1567 and occupied by the Chono, Huilliche, and Cunco people. The Spanish arrived much later. he name of the town means Place of Seagulls. Very appropriate.
We had a half day to explore. Some folks went to the Chiloe National Park to hike. Others, myself included, explored the towns of Castro, Dalcahue and Quichao. Sites included the houses on stilts and handicraft market. Also some very uniques buildings.
Started off rainy but the sun poked its nose out and stayed to make it a very pleasant most of our visit. Countryside is lovely. Sheep and cow farms on the land and oyster farms on the sea.
Most of the homes in the city were sided with unique shingles made from the local hardwood. The shingles last around 40 years at which point they are taken off, turned over and put back on for the next 40. The homes are also on stump like foundations. That makes it easy to move them which happens with some regularity. Everyone turns up and houses are put on logs and rolled to the new location with horse, oxen and people pulling pushing and shoving. So you do not buy a bigger better house you buy a new better location and move the house. If it is over water the houses are floated. Appears this local wood is magic. Called Minga . Everyone works together and helps each other with no expectation of pay or payback. Makes sense to me. After the move comes a great feast. A pit is dug and stones that have been heated over a fire are placed in the hole. Then comes seafood, meats, potatoes etc and it is cover with with rhubarb leafs. When done the party starts and goes and goes and goes!
Chile has 200 species of potatoes.
We walked thru a fresh market and handicraft market. What made an impression on me was the size of the carrots, colors of the fresh eggs, and oysters on a string. The handicraft market was filled with knit items and items of wool and wood. Bought gloves.
People were welcoming and kind.
Back to the ship for the Captains dinner and meeting of all staff and crew.
A good day all in all. Mild weather and new people. Time for bed.
Sam.
Oct 11, Weds.
Hi Nanc.
Today we are in the Valdivian forest to do a hike. The forest is in Pumalin Park. The park was created and donated by Douglas Tompkins who had traveled to Chile for years to hike, ski climb and kayak. Tompkins and his wife owned North Face and Espirit and were committed to protecting the earths wilderness. They created a trust and eventually acquired 742,000 acres to creat the park. His vision was for CHileans and the world to experience the unique landscapes and natural wonders. And that is exactly what we found in the park. wonders of flora and fauna. Wonders of birds. We met the Chaco Tapacuo bird and its beautiful call. It was a lovely hike ending at a lovely waterfall. And the walk was in the sun and under blue skies. But our lunch was at a local hotel while it rained.
Let me talk about the weather her in Chile/Patagonia. In minutes it goes from gorgeous to rain to fierce wind. Temps range from early morning lows of low 30’s to highs in low 60’s. The farther south we go on the trip the highs become lower to lows remain same. The weather is much like lower Alaska. A temperate climate with amazing amounts of rain.
We have wonderful naturalist, photographers and guest speakers on board. Our leader Lucho is a Ecudaorian full of enthursiam and wonder. Our photographer Drew is from Wyoming and loves cougars/pumas. We have naturalists from Alaska, Argentiana, Oregon, Australia, Chile and Washington. We also have two divers who bring us the wonders of the undersea world near us as we travel. Yes they dive in these very very cold waters.
Days are filled with wonder of what we see as we hike and the wonders of what we hear from these informative experts. Plus we have the knowledge of our guest speaker Yolanda who is the CEO of World Wildlife Fun.
I wish I could give you the day by day information they shared but you will have to trust me when I say it was amazing.
Thursday Oct 12,
Hey Kiddo,
Sun up at 7:01 . We arrived 230 miles south in the fjord of Arsenal. We head to the head of the fjord to a town Called Pureto Chacabuco. We hike once more to a beautiful waterfall. Oh dear I forgot. We got met by dancers, a couple, in traditional dress. The spurs on the gentleman were the size of soucers. Lovel bright costumes.
Today for lunch we had a tradition Lamb BBQ at a lovely hilltop place overlooking a lake. The lamb is done on a spit over an open fire.
Sundown at 8:14. Back on board for another nice dinner and bed by 9. Pooped!
Thoughts of you each day. Even more so when I have to figure out cameras, clothing and snacks. Or I want to turn to you and say look at this!!! So guess what I say look at this in my head.
Cheers,
Friday Oct 13 Sunrise 7:09
Hi,
Last night After leaving the port we head westward out the Fjord on our way 250 miles south west. It takes us 17 hours traveling all night to arrive mid morning today. We are at Estero Slight a hidden fjord within the southern tip of a peninsula know as Estero Slight...
Guess What-I pooped out and stopped writing but the ship kept a journal. Just plain too little time and much exhaustion after busy days.Here is the ships log.
Darkness still engulfed the ship as we approached the lights of Castro, the largest town on Chiloé Island. Quietly the captain and local pilots brought the ship alongside the pier in the center of the town. A slight drizzle, cool temperatures, and overcast skies with light wind started the day. Disembarking right after breakfast we had two options for the morning’s activities. One group headed to the south of the island before crossing to the outer coast to visit the Chiloé National Park. The other group went to the north of the town for a more cultural experience, and to see some of the island’s landscapes. Both groups would return for a slightly late lunch in the early afternoon.Chiloé is the second largest island in Chile and at over 3,000 sq.
Oct 10, 2017 Parque Pumalín, Chile Early this morning, the National Geographic Explorer made her way into a long narrow fjord, deep into the coastal mountains of Chile. As the light came up we could see that we were surrounded by beautiful snow covered peaks and, wonder of wonders in a temperate rainforest, bright sunshine and blue skies. Our destination was Parque Pumalín, one of the beautiful reserves created by the American conservationist, Douglas
Thompkins
Traversing 250 miles south-west allotted some time on the ship for briefings and presentations this morning. Naturalist and ornithology expert, Doug Gualteri gave an in depth presentation on not only the local avian species seen on the trip, but demonstrated some key insights of how to bird watch properly. Binoculars at the ready, our ship glided into the foggy fjord of Estero Slight by the afternoon. From the ship we could see some of the endangered marine otters splashing in the water. Majestic waterfalls and lush greenery covered the steep, surrounding walls of mountains. Once we reached our landing, deep within the fjord, our hikers set out to tackle the muddy path towards Cabo Raper’s historic lighthouse. A few avid hikers even made it all the way to the lighthouse, seven miles roundtrip, and were able to meet Sergeant Carrillo and his nephew. Sergeant Carrillo has manned the naval station of the lighthouse for the past five months, and said that it had been the hardest winter he can remember- the roof of the building blew off in July. He noted that sometimes the wind was so bad while trying to repair the roof that he could only put in one nail before having to retreat back into shelter. Others opted to explore the lively bay surrounding the ship via Zodiac
Oct 13, 2017
Today we were able to explore the small fishing village of Tortel. This small town of approximately 500 people sits in the beautiful setting of the Patagonian fjords and is perched on the hillside above a small cove. Fishing boats dot the coast and an intricate system of boardwalks connects the houses and businesses found here. I was lucky enough to lead a photo walk with an enthusiastic group of guests into the town. It was great fun to wander this sleepy little town, as was evident on the smiles on everyone’s faces as we made our way back to the ship. It’s such fun to look for interesting photos in places like these. The board walks, old fishing boats, and people of the town made for great subject matter for our photography. After boarding the ship and having lunch, I was able to give a lecture on smart phone photography.
Oct 14, 2017
We awoke to beauty. The National Geographic Explorer floated calmly in front of a glacier chosen specially by our Chilean navigation pilots on board, a holding area to await the daylight needed for us to safely traverse the English Narrows. All hands were on deck for the weaving passageways of the narrows, a spot that must have been quite a nervous endeavour when the likes of Magellan were first passing through. The afternoon was full of ice once again, this time in front of the longest glacier in the whole of South America: Pio XI – named after none other than the Pope himself.
Oct 15, 2017
Early this morning the National Geographic Explorer navigated its way through the narrow channels and between the many picturesque islands toward the spectacular fjord known as Seno Montanas – the fjord of mountains.After breakfast we headed ashore in the Zodiacs to get an up close view of the enormous Bernal Glacier which was easily accessible through a beautiful forest trail.
Oct 16, 2017
Having the opportunity to visit this icon of Patagonia for the day is one of the many highlights of our expedition, and it didn’t disappoint. This landscape has been shaped by glaciers thousands of years ago with the vestiges of that era still clinging to the surrounding peaks. Winds and water have been putting the finishing touches on it since the last Ice Age ended, and one can only expect that when exploring the Patagonia steppe, or Pampa, you’ll be touched by both. At just under 500,000 acres or 700 square miles, Paine (blue) sees almost a quarter million visitors each year. The Paine Cordillera is the central feature with its torres (towers) of granite reaching over 2,500 meters. Not part of the Andes Mountains, the Paine massif is only 80 million years old and is a distinctive geologic formation. Today we set out to get the most of our time here. Half set out on a near 5 mile hike through the steppe, where guanaco roamed along the trail, Andean condors soared overhead, and even an elusive puma was spotted rested under a granite cliff face observing its domain. The remainder of our guests set out to see more of the park, stopping at the various points of interest to take it all in.
Oct 17, 2017
This morning we left Puerto Natales en route to Karukinka Park, on the big island of Tierra del Fuego To leave the Almirante Montt Gulf, we had to cross Kirke Narrows.
Oct 18, 2017
As the new day’s first rays of light broke through we enjoyed our navigation down Admiralty Bay, a huge fjord that heads from west to east, biting deep into the big island of Tierra del Fuego. There were seabirds to watch along the way, and the wind conditions were minimal, which was good news for the morning plans. When the wind is strong, it funnels straight down the fjord and buffets the shorelines of María and Jackson Bays. Today we hoped to land in Jackson Bay, part of the Karukinka Reserve, which is administered by WCS (the Wildlife Conservation Society).Soon after breakfast we headed for our landing spot and once we deposited our lifejackets, we took great care how we headed off on the various walks because there were a number of southern elephant seals right next to us.
Oct 19, 2017
This morning we woke up in a beautiful fjord, one of many in the Cordillera Darwin on the north side of Beagle Channel. The sky was mostly overcast, which is pretty typical in this area, but with sprinkling and a fresh powering of snow on the mountains. At the end of the fjord, Seno Garibaldi, there was the spectacular Garibaldi Glacier with the fjord completely full of icy bits, like a giant margarita! This is a very active tidewater glacier with a snout in the water feeling the tide. After breakfast we took to our fleet of Zodiacs to make a tour and guess what? It stopped sprinkling, there was no wind, and it was fun to slowly plow through the bits of glacial ice! Every once and again there was a blast of sound from the front of the glacier, sometimes ice fell, and sometimes it was just ice cracking.
Oct 20, 2017
Today was a special day because we were able to land in mythical Cape Horn. A place with so much history related to sailors from the past. Even today, this is an area that challenges us. Luckily, the winds were in our favor and we were able to visit and walk on the southernmost point of Tierra del Fueg0. Cape Horn marks the northern boundary of the Drake Passage including where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet.
Oct 21, 2017
Early this morning the National Geographic Explorer arrived at the the remote island of Isla De Los Estados (Staten Island). The island has been declared an “Ecological, Historic, and Tourist Provincial Reserve” by the Argentinian government and access to the island is strictly limited and only under special permit. We feel very fortunate to be able to visit this intriguing island that very few people have ever visted.After breakfast we headed ashore in the Zodiacs to a beautiful bay called Bahia Franklin, this was a true expedition stop as it was the first time any Lindblad ship had visted the area.
Oct 22, 2017
A quiet night was spent at our anchorage deep in Cánepa Bay. Early in the morning the National Geographic Explorer weighed anchor and slowly headed out to sea. The rugged coastline with its many caves that work their way deep into the rock amazed those who had risen early. Lovely warm pastel shades light up the morning sky and in the distance to the south, cotton ball clouds brought a splash of color to the predominantly monochrome landscapes closer to the ship.Once out in the open a very different story emerges, strong winds greet us and the sea, as far as the eye can see, is dotted with white patches as the strong 40 knot gusts whip up the top of the small waves.
Oct 23, 2017
Morning looks good! Yesterday, at the end of the world, it was a bit windy. That is how it is here, we work with nature, and it is not a tour. Yesterday afternoon the weather was not good for the landing we wanted. We could have skipped it, but instead we made plan “B”—wait and go the next morning. Which turned out to be a very good idea!
This morning is mostly sunny, the wind has shifted 180 degrees at our anchorage.
Oct 25
Dear Nancy,
OK we are back to my original writing and not that of the naturalists. Next Morning was indeed a good morning. Into the zodiacs and around a gorgeous bay. What did we find. A Gorgeous Emperor Penquin posing on the beach for us. Wow he was incredible. Great birds and an huge bull seal being guarded by his harem and a eagle. What a last adventure this was for me. Blue skys and thoughts of you.
Oct 26-28
I had signed up to go on an extension to Iguazu Falls.
I downsized by packing in a carry on-all we were allowed. Checked out and checked bags to pick up when we return. Off to the airport. All this before 6AM. Guess what-plane cancelled but due to the hard work of our local guide we got on an afternoon flight. The bus returned and we jumped on to tour Buenos Aires. Kind of fun. Saw places I had not seen before including cathedral and Plaza de Mayo. Did see things we saw when we visited. Remember the park with the large stainless sculptures? Remember the antiques and arts section? Did not get to go back there but I can see you buying the belt and me the shoe form. Also the street tango. Great memories.
Then off to Recoleta Cemetery. Guess what-Evita is still there and it still is very interesting. I believe some of the same incredible spider webs with silk as thick as pencil leads are still there as well.
Here we are in Iguazu National Park staying at a hotel with the falls right out front. Wow. An evening waling around and then to bed. Up before dawn to meet our birdwatching guide. We did not get far before we started seeing incredible birds but my favorite by far was the toucans. Wow and several variety. Also met up with some raccoon like critters. Then we began our first walk to the falls. I can not adequate describe the falls. I can truly understand why they are considered one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The falls are on the border of Argentina and Brazil and can be experienced from both sides. We did Argentina. The Iguazu River feeds the falls. In this case falls is literal as there are 257 individual falls.
And an upper and lower set of falls. You can walk on metal grate walkways to both. The roar is deafining and the spray drenching. I could have spent days there. And birds everywhere. Hope you enjoyed Nancy. Easy to have a little cry missing your physical presence because my face was always drenched. Not a great place for pictures or glasses! Dinner in town. Then up early for one more falls walk and off the the airport. Pick up my bag at the Sofitel and off to the International Airport to wing it home. The end of a delightful trip. You were in my heart the whole way. And you were right-I could do it.
Love you, Sue
