Laurie Beasley's blog of our Ethiopia trip

Ethiopia Photo Expedition, January 2015

National Geographic

Our Ethiopia trip was spectacular and full.  However we found ourselves with no time to write a blog.  After our return our good intentions were thwarted by more trips.  To the rescue:  Laurie and Noel Beasley traveled with us and Laurie posted a blog.  We enjoyed traveling with them and loved her perspective of the trip.  We asked her is we could share her blog with you as we couldn't have done it better.  You will notice from the familiar looking pictures that she was on the very same trip as we were.  So with full credit to Laurie, and much gratitude, here are the Ethiopian adventures.

  

Pelicans on Lake Chamo, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

JOURNEY  

TO THE MOTHERLAND OF ETHIOPIA

January 2015

Part I

                When my husband Noel told a colleague that we were going to Ethiopia, she replied, "Ah, the motherland." Visiting Ethiopia is like being in a time machine. We traveled back a million years or more to our hominid origins with Lucy, forward several 100,000 years to our tribal and pastoral roots, forward again several score of millenia to the time of Solomon and Sheba, fast forwarded to the very earliest forms of Christianity, past stone walled towns and terraced agriculture and finally touched down once again in the 21^st Century with the global economy advancing full blast. Visiting Ethiopia was a breath-taking experience.

                We decided on a trip to Ethiopia when I saw the Omo Valley listed as a destination in an expedition catalog from National Geographic. The tour also included Lalibela, but it was the Omo Valley that attracted me. The Omo Valley has been home to several pastoralist groups for thousands of years, but their distinctive ways of life are changing rapidly because the central government in Addis Ababa is pushing the development of industrial agriculture in the region and building a massive hydroelectric dam on the Omo River. Pastoralists are nomadic people who support themselves by raising livestock on uncultivated pastures and supplement their living by practicing flood-retreat and rain-fed bush-land agriculture. What we were privileged to see will probably not exist in ten years, so there was an urgency on our part to get there before it all went away.

                We began our journey on Ethiopian Airlines. It is a great airline with a really fine business class and no first class. If possible, it's always good to fly the carrier of the country that you are visiting. You can get a good introduction that way. We made the mistake of flying United Airlines to Turkey two years ago. It was terrible, bad food, bad service (even in business class) and old airplanes. I honestly don't know why anyone who has a choice flies United or American. On Ethiopian Airlines we were served some really good Rift Valley syrah and merlot wines. We passed on the western entrée and opted for a selection of Ethiopian wot (vegetable and meat stews, often quite spicy) accompanied by injera bread (a flat, spongy sourdough bread, made of fermented teff flour). I'm not a fan of sourdough, but injera works with well with spicy wot. We ended our dinner with fabulous Ethiopian coffee. We would learn more about this wonderful beverage later on our voyage.

Addis Ababa in Brief and Beyond

                After fourteen hours of flying we landed in Addis Ababa, purchased our visitors' visas at the airport and met our three National Geographic hosts - professional photographer Chris Rainier, J. D. Kling, the logistics person, and Henok Kebebe, our Ethiopian guide. I should mention that this was a photographic expedition. We are not professional photographers

Injera grill maker at the Merkato, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

or even serious amateurs but we chose the photographic expedition because of the timing. There was a cultural tour that ended the day we arrived, but the timing was too close to the Christmas holidays for us.

                Getting acquainted with Chris Rainier was a real privilege. He was Ansel Adams' last assistant from 1980 to 1984 when Adams died and spent the year after his death printing his undeveloped negatives. Chris is considered one of the world's leading documentary photographers. Although he has covered conflicts in political hot spots like Sarajevo and Somalia for publications like Time Magazine, he sees his life's mission as helping to empower indigenous people by showing them how to use photography and technology to record and enrich their cultures.

                Our tour group consisted of 21 people including our three hosts. We were mostly in our late 50's to early 70's. Most everyone was in decent physical shape, but accommodations were made for those who had difficulty walking. Noel and I and a couple of spouses were the only non-serious photographers. I just shoot to illustrate my blog. Everyone else was very earnest about their photography and Chris was very generous with his time and advice.     

Recycling plastic jugs at the Merkato, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

                My first impression of Addis was of a dynamic city under construction. It stands 7000 feet above sea level and has a population of over 3 million. High rise buildings seem to be going up everywhere. Ethiopia has the fastest growing economy in Africa and the African Union is headquartered in Addis. The city has been called the political capital of Africa. The Chinese are close to completing the construction of a light rail system in the city. The name Addis Ababa means "beautiful flower" in Amharic. It is not an old city. It was founded in 1886 by the Empress Taytul Betu, the wife of Emperor Menelik II. She apparently liked the hot springs there. Security seems to be an issue because we had to pass through airport-like screenings to enter our hotel, theRadisson Blu. But given the fact that Ethiopia borders Eritrea, Somalia and Sudan, it's not surprising.

                In the afternoon after our arrival we went to the Merkato, the largest open-air market in Africa. The market was set up by the Italian fascists during their occupation of Ethiopia in the 1930's. They forced non-European merchants out of the center of the city into the Merkato, at the time located on the outskirts of the city. It can be an overwhelming place, but it does seem to be organized by category. In other words, knives are generally located in one area, baskets in another, fabric in another, etc. We were warned to be extra cautious about pickpockets.

                Day two began with a tour of the National Museum where the famous skeleton of

The remnants of Lucy at the National Museum, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

Lucy is located. The real partial skeleton of Lucy is not on view, only an excellent copy, but the displays of the early evolution of hominids and ultimately homo sapiens and the animals and tools that accompanied them are impressive.

                After leaving the museum we had a short flight to Arba Minch, a small city about 300 miles

south of Addis in the Great Rift Valley. The airport at Arba Minch has the dubious distinction of hosting an American drone base. The high-tech hanger is clearly visible when you get off the plane. Chris told us he had actually seen a drone take off from there, most likely tracking Al Shabaab in Somalia.

                Our lodging for the night was Paradise Lodge with its traditional tukul cottages (thatched huts) and a sensational terrace that overlooks the Rift Valley. After lunch that included some really good fried lake fish caught locally, we boarded some small boats and

A tukul cottage at Paradise Lodge, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

toured Lake Chamo to view its animal life. The lake is teeming with crocodiles, hippos and amazing birds. We saw a large flock of pelicans that are much bigger than the domestic ones we have. I didn't realize pelicans gathered in such flocks. I always thought of them as free-lancers. One of the most interesting sights was that of local fishermen checking their nets from their homemade rafts surrounded by menacing crocs and hippos. As we were getting out of the boats, Henock pointed out some trees that had rattan bee hives hanging in their crowns. Honey is an important food source all over Ethiopia.

A Lake Chamo fisherman tends his nets from his improvised raft, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

                Before we left the next morning, we had the opportunity to shop at a small boutique attached to the hotel that offers local crafts made by two nearby workers' co-ops. The textiles are particularly nice.

Part II Into the Omo Valley                 Over the next several hours we were driven southwest in 7 air-conditioned 4 X 4's toward the small town of Jinka, stopping at two local weekly markets on the way. For the photographers the stops were great opportunities to shoot folks as they went about their A local market in the Omo Valley, photo courtesy of Ridge Art daily affairs. However, I was a little taken aback by the children who were not shy about touching us. They were especially fascinated by my painted fingernails. We were beginning to see more and more tribal people in their traditional clothing. And the further south we drove the more people expected to be paid when they were photographed. The going rate is 5 birr or roughly 25 cents per click. The whole area is undergoing tremendous development with new roads under construction outlined by new metal electric utility poles.                 Our destination was the Eco Omo Safari Lodge in Jinka. Before arriving there, we stopped at the Jinka Museum. Although small, the museum is an excellent introduction to the pastoralists of the Omo Valley. It is a project of the South Omo Research Center (SORC) in cooperation with the Institute of Ethiopian Studies, Addis Ababa University. SORC's activities are not only to research and document the diverse cultures of the Omo Valley but also to offer a center for these cultures to share their traditions, debate their differences, and promote mutual understanding and cooperation among groups that are frequently hostile to each other. Cooperation and understanding are particularly important in view of the radical changes that development, especially tourism, is bringing. In the next decade the goal of the central government is to have a million tourists a year visit the Omo Valley.                 I have to confess that going through the exhibits, especially the section on the role of women in pastoralist communities, made me very angry, surprisingly so. I knew in theory most of the facts about female circumcision and marriage but being physically in the environment where these backward traditions are practiced hit me hard emotionally. Later as we continued our journey, we met people from these communities who are dedicated to changing some of these practices and working with tribal elders to initiate the changes.                 At dinner that night we were introduced to Lale Labuko, a member of the Kara tribe and the first of his tribe to be given a formal education. As a teenager home on vacation from school he learned about the practice of killing children considered cursed A rescued mingi child, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  (mingi). Mingi children are thought to bring bad luck to the community if they are not killed. Lale's mother told him he had had two older sisters who were killed as mingi. He resolved to do something about this practice when he grew older. In 2008 with the help of American photographer and businessman John Rowe he co-founded Omo Child. The mission of Omo Child is "to provide a safe, nurturing home and quality education for rescued Mingi children. Our hope is that these children will become future leaders in their tribes and communities. We also raise awareness about the practice of Mingi and work to see it eliminated." Through the efforts of Lale Labuko and Omo Child the Kara stopped the practice in 2012. The Banna tribe has also committed to ending it. However, it is still practiced by the large Hamer tribe. We were scheduled to visit the Omo Child facility the next day.                  Later that evening after dinner we watched a video documenting tribal conflict among the Mursi tribe and the punishment meted out to the young men by the elders in response to the conflict. The Mursi are a small group of less than 10,000 and the women are known for their large lip plates. Interestingly, the video was made by a young Mursi man and his brother. The Mursi have an aggressive reputation and, like most of the adult males among the tribes we met, the men are armed with AK-47 assault rifles. The video and the talk by Lale Labuko about Omo Child set the stage for what we would see in the Omo Valley. Chris repeatedly called the area "the wild west" of Ethiopia. Indeed, it appears that the central government doesn't generally interfere in tribal conflicts, leaving the resolution up to the tribes, even when it comes to murder. The reigning standard of justice among all the groups is "an eye for an eye." Photo Shoots, Omo Child and Coffee                 The next morning we drove to Militia Village to visit with the Mursi, but before arriving there, our hosts had arranged for a separate photo shoot with some of the Mursi villagers. We were given about an hour to photograph a select group of folks without A Mursi woman and her child, photo courtesy of Ridge Art having to pay the 5 birr per click as we would have to do in the village. Chris kept warning us that the Mursi were a touchy lot who angered easily and that we should be especially careful not to offend anyone. We could see young armed Mursi warriors standing by on the hillside surrounding the shoot. Actually, everyone was quite laid back, obviously used to being photographed. A couple of the women were shyly selling lip plates which I was happy to buy.                 In Militia Village we were carefully monitored by the Mursi to make sure we paid the 5 birr per click. I had no problem with that, but I wasn't sure whom to pay when I wanted to take a shot of the village itself. The Mursi like all of the pastoralists in the Omo Valley do not have a masking tradition. Aside from the women's lip plates, they also practice scarification and body-painting to decorate themselves. At first it felt a little odd, even exploitive, to be shooting photographs of the Mursi decked out in their tribal regalia, but I shook that feeling A Mursi warrior, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  off because this was a business arrangement, no different than photographing highly paid models in New York, except these folks weren't highly paid. However, the Mursi made sure they were paid what was agreed upon. When I shot Noel standing next to a gray-bearded Mursi elder, he made sure I paid him 10 birr, not 5, because gray-bearded Noel was also in the picture. Once I put my camera away, we were able to wander at will without being hustled. We really enjoyed ourselves.                 In the afternoon we visited the Omo Child facility. The staff person showing us around emphasized that Omo Child is not an adoption agency because the more than 40 children living there are not orphans. The goal is to integrate these children back into their communities once beliefs have changed enough to ensure their well-being and safety. This is starting to happen. The children are A Kara elder's endorsement of Omo Child painted on a wall near the front door of the Omo Child facility, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  given the opportunity to attend school regularly, girls as well as boys. The hope is that these children, like Omo Child's founder, will help their generation and future ones successfully transition from tribal Africa to the developed world.                                We had a long drive the next day to Buska Lodge in the small market town of Turmi. After settling into our rooms, we were treated to a coffee ceremony. Ethiopia is the motherland of coffee where it still grows wild. The stimulating red beans were eaten by nomads living in the mountains. Eventually, its consumption evolved into the beverage we drink today. It owes its popularity to Islamic Sufi pilgrims who brought it back to the Arab world where it spread from there.                 The ceremony begins with a woman roasting green coffee beans over hot coals in a brazier. When the roasting is done, the beans are passed around for everyone to get a good aromatic whiff. Then the beans are ground with a wooden mortar and pestle. Often Roasting beans at a coffee ceremony at the Buska Lodge, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  frankincense will be burned in the coals after the roasting is over. Ethiopia is a great source for real frankincense. You can buy it from young boys who wave it at you along the road sides. The ground coffee is boiled three times in a clay pot and then poured into cups for everyone to enjoy. Usually a snack like popcorn or, my favorite, kolo (roasted barley) is served along with the coffee. Local health workers often take advantage of the conviviality of the coffee ceremony to discuss issues like family planning. The freshly roasted coffee is so good that I didn't even need to add sugar.                 Behind the Buska Lodge is the dry river bed of the Keske where the Hamer people hold their famous bull-jumping ceremonies. If a young Hamer man wants to marry, he has to run four times over the backs of twenty or so bulls that are held in place by men Shooting the Hamer people, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  who have successfully completed the bull-jumping. Before the ceremony begins, the sisters and other young female relatives of the jumper are beaten with sticks leaving scars on their backs. The more scars, the higher the status of the women. The beating obligates the Young Hamer girls at the photo shoot, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  successful jumper to care for the women if they ever need help. In the late afternoon our hosts had scheduled a photo shoot with some people from the nearby Hamer village in the dry Keske River but without the bull-jumping.

Part III  Further Into the Omo Valley The Kara Dance for Us A Hamer woman digging a well for water in a dry riverbed, photo courtesy of Ridge Art            On the morning of day six we drove two hours to see the Kara tribe who are known for their beautiful body-painting. We stopped along the way to watch some Hamer people laboriously dig a well in another dry river bed. I'm sure the folks digging that well would welcome development that brought them fresh clean water. Later we made stops to photograph huge termite mounds and the gorgeous "rose of the desert," that is not a rose but looks like a combination cactus and flowering tree and is neither. We later passed by large fields of industrially grown cotton planted by a Turkish company.               The first Kara village we stopped at overlooked the Omo River. The people there practice flood-retreat agriculture. That is, they plant their crops of sorghum, corn and beans on the river banks right after the annual flood. The damming of the Omo will put an end to this type of traditional agriculture. The cultural impact is even greater than the building of the dams and reservoirs by the Tennessee Valley Authority in the US in the 1930's. It is unclear what the central government will do to compensate the tribes, but it will have to do something because keeping at least a semblance of tribal traditions is key to its plans to develop tourism. A Kara family on a bluff overlooking the Omo River, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 We were scheduled for another photo shoot at a second Kara village further south. At this village we would not have to pay 5 birr per shot because the assistant head of Omo Child is from there and the villagers are grateful to Omo Child for stopping Mingi killings. After the shoot, we were treated to a fabulous performance of the "frog" dance, a courtship opportunity. Men and women in these communities lead very separate lives and these types of community dances give them a chance to interact and flirt. The dancers form a circle with the men on one half and the women on the other. Accompanied by a cappella singing, the women gracefully The Kara arrive for the dance, photo courtesy of Ridge Art  advance a few at a time over to the men who are jumping as high as they can. Couples momentarily pair off and then part. The men periodically work themselves up to a group crescendo and the cycle starts again. We were all invited to join the performance at the end. I am really self-conscious when this kind of moment occurs and step aside if I can. I need to get over that shyness because I'm missing out on some really fine opportunities to interact with folks. The Miracle of the Market   And Where Have All the Pockets Gone                 We had a long dusty ride back to Turmi where I was promised we would visit a local handicraft market. It was late in the afternoon when we pulled up into the center of town where the market was supposed to be, but there were only a couple of vendors left. I was really pissed because Chris and J.D. had been telling me not to buy in the villages and that we would do better at this market. Except for a few lip plates, I had been restraining myself. A Kara stool, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 Almost before we were able to get out of the vehicles, lo and behold, a dozen or more vendors appeared, threw their blankets on the ground and started arranging their wares. I had never seen anything quite like it. It turns out someone had spread the false rumor that the "taxman" was coming around and most everyone had split. But when our seven vehicles loaded with tourists showed up, the market miraculously manifested itself. As is usual in these situations, a teenage boy who spoke English claimed me as his client and followed me around translating the bargaining. He reminded me of my son Moran and his friend Brendon when they were in high school. They were always looking for an opportunity to make a little money and would certainly not be above hustling a couple of strangers. I found him actually quite helpful and he only cost me 30 birr ($1.50) in the end. I would have given him more but that's what he asked for.                 Handicrafts in Ethiopia are really a steal. Tourism in the Omo Valley has not developed to the point where there are souvenir shops selling cheap imports from China. The vendors at the Turmi market were selling basically the same things that the tribes make for their own use. I was able to purchase a goat skin "skirt" that a Hamer child would wear, a cool inscribed calabash decorated with cowry shells, a Hamer first wife necklace and a really great Kara stool for about 600 birr ($30US). Of course, you have to bargain. The same would hold true even in Lalibela up north where there is a lot more tourism.                 As we were leaving, I glanced out the rear view mirror and the market had already disappeared. I returned to the Buska Lodge at peace. This was a day to savor. A Dasanech woman cleaning a goat skin, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 Early the next morning we drove south once more, this time near the borders with Kenya and Sudan. We were scheduled to visit the Dasanech people on the other side of the Omo River. The Dasanech are the most southern tribe in the Omo Valley and number roughly 65,000. Unlike most of the tribes, they have taken in a number of different groups over time. They are divided into eight clans and each clan makes its special contribution to the tribe as a whole, i.e., one clan is good at treating diseases, another is skillful at fishing and hunting crocodiles, and so on. Members of the same clan cannot marry or even dance with each other.                 We crossed the river in dugout canoes. I noticed a school in the village but I was told it was only for the boys. We were treated to a dance performance, but it lacked the inclusiveness we experienced the day before at the second Kara village. As usual, a couple of small boys tagged along with us. When I paid one wearing a long shirt to take his picture, I gestured to him to put the money in his pocket. He didn't seem to understand what I was getting at, so I kept putting my hand in my pocket. That's when he raised his shirt to repeat my gesture and I realized he wasn't wearing any pants. Hamer men bleeding a cow, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 Back in Turmi our hosts had arranged for us to see a cow bleeding in the Hamer village near the Buska Lodge. Cow bleeding is quite common among the Omo Valley tribes. Some rely on it for food more than others. The Hamer drink cow's blood mainly to recover from an illness or some other physically draining event like child birth. However, the Mursi regularly use cow's blood and milk to supplement their largely sorghum and corn diet. The cow's neck is tied with a tourniquet and then the animal is shot with an arrow in the neck where there is a good vein. The blood is caught in a calabash and briskly stirred until the blood gels. Then it is eaten and the cow released to recover from its wound.                 After the cow-bleeding, Noel and I went off to explore the village. We met again many of the folks who had been in the Hamer photo shoot in the dry riverbed two days before, including a sweet young boy who spoke really good English and who was about the age of our younger grandson Parker and just as precocious. Once again we were also taken up by a teenage boy who acted as a translator between us and a Hamer woman who was selling handicrafts. Our younger friend took me aside to tell me, "Don't give him any money because he'll just go to town, buy beer and get into a fight." He had clearly overheard his elders saying that. I tried to explain to him that that's what teenage boys do, but hopefully, they see the error of their ways as they grow up and most do. Candy, Stones and Stelae An Arbore woman carrying materials to build a shelter,  photo courtesy of Ridge Art                We headed back up north the next morning, stopping at an Arbore village on our way. The Arbore are another small tribe of around 6,000 and seem to live pretty much at peace with their neighbors, unlike more aggressive tribes like the Mursi. They are known for sharing their resources and intermarrying with other groups. It seemed to me that the men and women mixed more and there was a general sweetness about their demeanor. All of the tribes that we visited adorned themselves with beautiful beadwork. I noticed a few of the Arbore men wearing metal watch bands incorporated into beaded necklaces. We did witness one negative incident. A German tourist took it upon himself to throw down candy for the children in lieu of paying the 5 birr for photographs. The Mursi wouldn't have let him get away with that transgression. They would have confiscated his camera and sold it back to him piece by piece. The underside of the thatched roof at the Kanta Lodge in Konso, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 Our next destination was the Kanta Lodge near the stone walled village of Gamole where the Konso people live. The Kanta Lodge is a beautiful facility with individual tukuls set in a lovely garden. The tukuls are elegantly simple with the most wonderful thatched roofs. The lodge's kitchen served the best food we had in the Omo Valley.                 Gamole is one of 11 Konso villages, or really towns, declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites by the United Nations. About 5,000 people live there and it is constructed as a series of stone walls built in circles, one wall surrounding another. The land around the village is densely terraced. Unlike their neighbors to the south, the Konso are not nomadic pastoralists. They are basically farmers who built their stone towns as defensive measures against their aggressive neighbors. The Ethiopian time machine had advanced us a thousand years ahead of the tribal people to the south. A generation pole in the Konso village  of Gamole, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 The Konso are known for the wagas or wooden statues erected to honor dead heroes. They also erect "generation poles" every eighteen years to designate the start of a new generation. You can tell how old a village is by the number of poles inside it. They also have the interesting custom of building a communal house for adolescent boys in the community. The boys sleep there and do community service work. When they reach marriageable age, they have to toss a forty kilo stone over their shoulder a certain number of times before they are allowed to take a wife. Walking through the village was like meandering through a stone labyrinth. From time to time we would come upon a village square where folks can sit and gather and where the generation poles are placed. The village also has a "swearing stone" that serves as a kind of Konso bible for testifying in disputes. Gamole was the only place where children were not hassling us for money. Apparently, an edict has been issued, probably by the Konso king, that children are not allowed to take money from strangers. Tossing the stone for a wife, photo courtesy of Ridge Art                 We paid a brief visit to Kala (Chief) Gezahegne of the Konso who lives nearby in a beautiful stone-walled compound with thatched roofs next to what the Konso have designated a sacred forest. The Kala speaks excellent English and is appropriately enough a civil engineer. During a brief question and answer period he expressed his concern about preserving the natural environment and balancing tradition with modern technology. The tension between conservation and change was the theme of our week in the Omo Valley.                          The next day we flew back to Addis Ababa to prepare for our journey north to Lalibela. We were treated that evening to a terrific lecture and slide show on evolution and the natural and cultural diversity of Ethiopia by Dr. Berhane Asfaw, an Ethiopian paleontologist. I wish a few of our less enlightened American politicians had been there.

Part IV

EPIPHANY IN LALIBELA

                We had an early flight to Lalibela. JD asked us to reduce our luggage a bit, since we were only going to be there for two nights. I had brought a compactable bag that we were able to load with extraneous stuff that we wouldn't need. We checked it at the Radisson where we were returning before our flight back to the States. Serious photographers, like most of our fellow travelers, carry a lot of heavy luggage packed with equipment. Secure luggage storage is a very handy service provided by the hotel.

                Lalibela is a small town of roughly 15,000 people during non-festival times. I read somewhere that out of that population about a 1,000 are Orthodox Christian priests. The town is situated 8,000 feet above sea level, in the mountains of north central Ethiopia.

Bearing the Tabot at the Timkat processions in Lalibela, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

                We were going during the Feast of the Epiphany or Timkat in Amharic, so the population probably doubled because Lalibela is a major pilgrimage site. It is the second most holy city in the country next to Aksum where orthodox traditionalists believe the actual Ark of the Covenant given by God to Moses is located. In Western Christianity Epiphany commemorates the Adoration of the Magi or the Three Kings. One of those kings is thought to have been an Ethiopian bearing frankincense. In Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity and other Eastern Orthodox sects Epiphany marks the time Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River. Both events basically represent Christ revealing himself as the Son of God to the whole world, not just to the Jews.

                Lalibela's attraction as a pilgrimage site is its eleven monolithic rock-hewn churches. The churches were built at the behest of King Lalibela of the Zagwe Dynasty that ruled the country during the 12^th and 13^thcenturies. At that time the city of Lalibela was called Roha and was the dynasty's capital. The king is said to have traveled in his youth to Jerusalem. When Jerusalem was captured by Muslims in 1187 AD, the king vowed to build a new Jerusalem where Christian pilgrims could visit. Apparently, he was currying favor with the powerful Orthodox Church to help counter rivals to his throne and the influence of the city of Aksum home of the reputed Ark. Lalibela is said to have labored twenty years overseeing the building of the churches and then abdicated his throne to become a hermit. He is honored as one of the church's most beloved saints and the city was renamed for him. Needless-to-say, there are lots of stories about their creation. One tale professes that much

Timkat procession, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

of the work was done by angels at night while the workmen were sleeping. When the first Europeans saw the churches in the 16^th century, stories spread that the churches were built by the Knights Templar. But it's quite clear that Ethiopians built them and they didn't need any outside help. Fact and fiction merge in Lalibela making it a fascinating place.

                The Ethiopian time machine had thrust us from animist cultures in the Omo Valley and set us down in the time of the earliest Christians, so early that the rituals we observed are practically ancient Jewish traditions, particularly those surrounding the parading of the Tabot (the model of the Holy Ark) to the nearby River Jordan. This is not the same Jordan River as in the Middle East but was named for it as part of making Lalibela the New Jerusalem. Christianity came to Ethiopia very early, probably in the 1^st century AD from Egypt. The monotheistic religion found fertile ground to grow because Ethiopia already had a significant Jewish population with roots going back to Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. You can imagine all the stories about that alliance.

Diving into Timkat and the Green Flash

                Upon arriving from the airport, we immediately dove into the Timkat celebrations. There were lots of people but the crowds were very mellow. There were several processions from the churches occurring at once, mostly male, but there was one procession of women drumming, singing and dancing. We were told they were from a daycare center. At one point roughly fifty priests or more dressed in white robes gathered

Call and response, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

on the hillside overlooking the processions and engaged in a call and response with the crowd and their counterparts below, swaying and bowing to the drumming. We were caught up in it as well. It was very cool.

                We took a lunch break at a fine place that served us freshly slaughtered chicken. We had noticed the live chickens being carried away as we were getting off the bus from the airport. JD informed us that he had been able to upgrade our hotel from one in town to the Mountainview Lodge high up in the hills overlooking Lalibela.

                We spent the afternoon visiting three of the churches. UNESCO has declared the

Women drummers, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

churches and the traditional houses surrounding them World Heritage Sites. The first church was Biete Medhane Alem (House of the Savior of the World) and is believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world.

The rock-hewn churches are actually carved, not constructed, from the top down, so they are even with the surface of the surrounding ground. Some restoration work has been done to the outside of Biete Medhane Alem, mainly on the exterior pillars of one outside

Reconstructed pillars at Biete Medhane Alem, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

wall, but considering the buildings date from the 12th

century, they are in remarkably good condition and all are still in use. I have seen the rock-hewn churches and houses in Cappadocia and they are literally crumbling over time because the rock is soft lava rock. The Lalibela churches are carved out of single blocks of granite. My bucket list includes Petra in Jordan, another rock-hewn community.             

                Getting into and out of the churches is somewhat of a challenge because you have to take your shoes off before going inside and the floors are uneven and the steps a bit high. At the suggestion of one of our fellow travelers, I would recommend bringing a walking stick. I noticed that the male congregants generally carry tall canes with them. This enables them to lean during the long services held by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. There are no pews.

                The second church we visited was Biete Maryam (House of Mary). It is supposed to be the oldest of the churches and has replicas of the tombs of Adam and Christ inside. Right outside is a cistern containing rather slimy green water that women who are barren are supposed to bathe in to become fertile.

Biete Giorgis (Church of Saint George), photo courtesy of Ridge Art

                The third one was Biete Giorgis (Church of Saint George). Biete Giorgis is just amazing to see on the outside. It's carved into the shape of a cross with three crosses inside of each other. Form and function merge because one of the crosses is actually a drainage ditch. Since all the churches are carved down into the granite hillside, water drainage is a major issue.

                It was late in the afternoon when we checked into the Mountainview Lodge, a veritable aerie with raptors flying all around. The hotel is architecturally interesting if a bit run down and the view is outstanding. A group of us gathered on the outside terrace for drinks and we were treated to a sunset that was an archipelago of lights and clouds. One of our fellow travelers was a retired airline pilot and he swore there was a "green flash." Green flashes are optical illusions that happen right after sunset or before sunrise when a green flash appears just above the upper edge of the sun. It lasts only a second or so and sometimes looks like a green ray projecting out of the sun. The flash is most often observed by pilots.

                Dinner that night was the usual buffet but the food was fabulous, especially the "fried" lamb ribs. The chef was actually standing outside the dining room as we left to receive comments about the food. The only downside was the initial lack of serving utensils and no labels explaining what the food was. The staff quickly remedied that.

Monastery Mummies and Sky Goblets

                After breakfast early the next morning we were driven back to town for a brief stop to watch the Timkat mass held outdoors. To me as a recovered Roman Catholic still in love with the Latin mass, the ritual was familiar but foreign at the same time. Sacred rituals in Ethiopian Orthodoxy are performed in Ge'ez, the ancient but no longer spoken language of the Aksum kingdom. The sermons are given in the local language.    

        Next on our agenda was a bumpy hour and an half ride through the very interesting 

countryside to the church of a cave monastery built in the 11^th century by Yemrehanna 

Kristos (Christ Show Me the Way) and named for him. There is major construction being  

The cave monastery, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

done on the road and electrification seems to be coming to the villages. If you block out the new road construction from your view, the surrounding area looks like I imagine it has appeared for 2,000 years, basically shepherds and subsistence farmers eking out a living in a high desert.

                At an altitude of roughly 9,000 feet it was a bit of a hike up to the church but quite doable. I thought the interior of this church was the most interesting one we saw. At one point the head priest brought out an ancient brass cross and he was wearing the same bright green sock slippers Ethiopian Airlines gives business class passengers. No restoration work has been done on the church, and because it's in a cave

Green sock slippers, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

and not exposed to the elements, the outside walls and ancient murals are in really good shape. Way at the back of the church are the mummified remains of more than 7,000 pilgrims who had traveled there from as far away as Egypt and Syria to die. A medical doctor traveling with us observed that some of the skulls looked like they had suffered severe trauma. Maybe all isn't what it seems. Yemrehanna Kristos was Lalibela's predecessor and set the style for the latter's churches.

                Back down at the beginning of the trail up to the monastery the local people operate small shops selling souvenirs, many handcrafted items that they use in their daily lives but exotic to us and religious items bought by pilgrims. I purchased a nice goat skin "lunch box." I noticed a small group of young men getting mildly high chewing khat, the leaves of a flowering plant that contains an amphetamine. Khat is one of Ethiopia's largest exports.

                We had lunch reservations at a truly bizarre restaurant near our hotel called Ben Abeba, a name that combines Scottish and Amharic to mean "hill of flowers." It is owned by a retired home economics teacher from Scotland and a local Ethiopian man who hired two young Ethiopian architects to design the building. They came up with a design that is supposed to reflect the surrounding hills but looks like something out of a Star Wars movie. The dining areas are "flowery concrete goblets [that] hold tables aloft, offering up diners to the sky," as a Scottish newspaper described it. Most folks describe its shape as "snail-like." At any rate, the food is not bizarre but quite good, a blend of traditional Ethiopian fare and Scottish favorites like shepherd's pie. Shepherd's pie appeared on another buffet we encountered in the Omo Valley.

Sky goblets, photo courtesy of Ridge Art

                After lunch some of our group opted to tour the inside of the Church of Saint George, but Noel and I decided to take the afternoon off. We took the time to visit a couple of small souvenir stands near our hotel and bought a really nice polished steel processional cross and a beautifully illustrated new prayer book as gifts. The family that was running the shop was enjoying that wonderful, freshly roasted Ethiopian coffee in the late afternoon. They invited us to join them, but we gratefully declined and headed for the hotel bar to enjoy some good Ethiopian wine.

Back to the Present

                We flew back to Addis Ababa the next morning to prepare for our evening flight home on fabulous Ethiopian Airlines. We had changed a significant amount of US dollars into birr at a currency exchange at the Radisson at the start of our journey and didn't spend very much of it, so the first thing we did was change it back. Major word of warning, when changing money abroad, always keep your receipts and understand any restrictions in changing it back. At the Radisson currency exchange you have a limit on how much can be changed back into dollars and you can only make the exchange once. Fortunately, we were within our limit and had the receipts, but a few hours later when I found a few more birr, we weren't allowed to change that back. But that was okay because we spent it at the airport. We ran into a similar situation in Argentina a few years back.

                We had a final dinner and farewell with our fellow travelers before heading to the airport. During dinner Chris Rainier did a terrific presentation on Ansel Adams and talked about his, Chris', evolution as a professional photographer and how he discarded the notion of objectivity in journalism when he was on assignment in Somalia. He reiterated his commitment to using his skills to empower indigenous people and document their cultures. I strongly suggested he get to know the work of the late Milton Rogovin. I need to mention the really hard work and meticulous attention we enjoyed from JD Kling who handled the thankless, but most vital task of the logistical arrangements. And lastly but definitely not least, we want to acknowledge Henok Kebebe, our local Ethiopian guide, who enthusiastically led us to enjoy and begin to understand the incredible time machine that is Ethiopia.

Barbados to Miami

Friday the 21st of November is a lazy day at sea. Three highlights, our second Thai massage, the ship builders sea/pool, trials, and dinner with Jennifer and Robert.  Teams created ships from materials they could find on board.  They had to be able to navigate the treacherous waters of the swimming pool and carry 8 cans of pop.  Nine entries of various sizes and shapes but all very creative and all but two floated and carried their cargo safely. It is amazing that empty water bottles, paper from the daily programs, duct tape and items from the dining room and bar could turn into seaworthy ships. Kids have nothing on these adults. The teams dress the part of the crew and create a narrative of the boat details, special features and future voyages.

Bridgetown, Barbados---rain, rain, rain.  This is a major West Indies tourist destination.  We took a submarine trip to a coral reef and ship wreck. This sub was fun because it went down to 142 feet and traveled along the reef and ship wreck. Big schools of fish--horse eyed jacks and a smaller unnamed fish. Colors were muted in the rain and depths but visibility was good and we were very glad that we went.

On to Roseau, Dominica.  It is a charming island with lush forested mountains, hundreds of rivers and black sand beaches. This is called the nature island of the Caribbean and is the most natural.  We saw some of the island as we made our way to Trafalgar Falls. The road was narrow and steep with very green vegetation including banana, grapefruit, orange, cocoa, lime, coffee and palm trees. Then there are beautiful flowers, plants and grasses. We hiked into the two falls--the "mother", the shorter and stronger of the two and and the "father", the taller falls. Beautiful spot with lots photos snapped. 

From there we headed off to snorkel the Champagne reef.  The guides were fantastic getting us geared up and down to the very rocky beach. Once we put on our fins we went backward down a long black rubber carpet of sorts and eventually got deep enough to swim. This was one of the best snorkel experiences we have had. First stop is the coral reef with lots of fish and plant life. We were at the edge of the reef so could see the steep drop off. Once again it was raining and we all complained about getting wet.... Our guide kept a good pace, swam down to point out special features including a 500 year old cannon and piece of chain.  The best part was the geothermal area were it truly looked like champagne bubbles rising everywhere.  We swam among the bubbles, feeling their warmth as they popped against us. We could have stayed there all day but it was time to do our circus act to get out of the water. Traveled home along the coast through neighborhoods with small, simple, colorful homes. There is a national election December 8th, two parties identified by color. There are red and blue flags flying everywhere with very few signs. This was our favorite Caribbean stop.

Road Town, Tortola.  This is the largest island in the British Virgin Islands. We did not venture into town here as we boarded another boat to take us to Virgin Gourda for a hike to the geological rock formations in the Baths National Park. Mammoth boulders appear to have been dropped on the coast   Lots of nooks and crannies to explore.  One called the Cathedral is a protected area surrounded by these rocks. Claim to fame, Tyra Banks Sport's Illustrated photo shoot took place here.  The surf was pounding so we did not venture in for a swim or snorkel.  Pretty spot just to relax and watch the surf.

San Juan, Puerto Rico. We have been hear before but never to the rain forest. A forty five minute drive took us up the mountain side to El Yonque National Forest. The only rain forest in the US Forest Service.  Funny thing about the rain forest--it rained, lots.  We took a short hike looking for the vegetation and the Coqui, a small singing tree frog that resides here and keeps the forest free of mosquitoes.  Part of the group got to see one, he moved by the time it was our turn. Beautiful vegetation, flowers and waterfalls.  We did not go into town as the rains were threatening. Two sea days to go, one on Thanksgiving, and we disembark Friday in Miami.

Sea day 1, day 23 of the cruise. Finally a sunny hot day for the country fair. The pool deck becomes the setting for carnival type games, rope tying, ring toss, fishing in the hot tubs, games of skill and races--putting on pillow cases, dressing mannequins.... Lots of fun, though hot.  Prizes are raffled at the end, no luck for us.  Later the same day the lounge is turned into a space for the gala tea.  You have never seen anything quite like it--incredible pastries and sandwiches, with ice, pastry and fruit sculptures. 
You will be glad to know we each had only one little cookie. We knew our favorites since the head chef sent us a plates of goodies one night. So there we were at 9:00 in our pj's sampling a plate full of pastries.  Pays to know the head chef.  The day ended with the Regatta Singers doing show tunes. This was by far the most talented group of singers we have seen on our cruises.  Broadway quality. They blew us away with a rendition of "One More Day" from Les Miserables. Then all the crew came on stage to say goodbye. They have all been wonderful. The crew and good food on Oceania will keep us coming back for future trips and destinations.

Today is Thanksgiving and here we are on day 24--looking forward to turkey dinner on the back deck.  Happy Thanksgiving to everybody.  Miami in the morning and homeward bound.

Days on the Amazon and Devil's Island

We just finished three cruising days, two on the Atlantic and one on the Amazon.  Life on board is slow paced and casual. Lectures on various topics including shopping, future trips, cooking demos, and Thai massage.  That one inspired us to get a Thai massage the next day-- muscle and tendon stretching made Sue taller, or so she says.  We watched "Now you see me" in the lounge complete with popcorn, went to the evening magician show and hit penny slots on occasion--playing with house money at the moment. Crossing the equator involves an initiation ceremony for polliwogs, folks who never crossed on sea, become shellbacks after kissing a fish and being baptized by King Neptune. We have crossed about ten times but always enjoy the show.

The Amazon is 120 miles wide at the mouth, wide and brown. We couldn't see the shore from either side.  Customs came aboard to clear the ship and we set off.  Butterflies and lots of bugs have found their way on board.  We arrived this morning in Santarem.  It has 250 thousand people located at the junction of the blue waters of the Rio Tapajos and the Amazon. The waters meet here and and flow side by side, the Amazon muddy, brown, earth colored cold water meets the warm deep blue of the Tapajos yet they do not mix.   The area is surrounded by lush forests, the economy is driven by agriculture, cattle and mining. Henry Ford built a rubber plantation here to make rubber tires but is was a disaster and failed.

Our boat tour, since we have not been on a boat lately, took us in front of the city for quite a while and along the line where the rivers meet. Depending on temperatures the Amazon can push all the way into town or be held off.  As we moved along we observed life along the shore line, first in the city and then in the countryside.  We went past an island made by the Amazon floodwaters. People live there for seven months and move to drier land for five during the floods of 15-18 feet.  The river is 4,000 miles long and during the floods can be 120 miles in width.  There is only one bridge across the Amazon which supports 3000 known species of fish with new ones being discovered all the time.  It also contains anaconda, one of the largest snakes in the world as well as pink and grey river dolphins.  We saw several of each color as we made our way up a smaller tributary. Passing farms with crops and cattle, fisherman, and numerous species of birds we headed for Lake Maica. At this time of year the lake is confined but during the floods it spills over the land into the tributary, again the people move for five months of the year. On the return trip we stopped to fish for piranha.  Several passengers were successful in this endeavor. More pink dolphins on the way back, a closer view of the city shoreline and back to the dock to catch our tender.  One interesting thing we learned is that people in the rural area do not have wells.  Instead they have filters to clean the river sediment from their water. Kids go to school from 7-1 or 1-6 so we saw lots of kids playing and/or hanging out with family at home.

Capped off the day with a lovely dinner in Toscana, the Italian restaurant on board.

8:00 am found us at the entrance to the Valeria river and the village of Boca da Valeria.  Tendering ashore we were greeted by the village and neighboring village kids who wanted to be our guides.  They quickly grab your hand and off you go. The village is tiny and contains a few wooden houses built on stilts, a small one room school for 36 students and a small church. Also the village was full of kids showing off local wildlife, monkeys, sloths, birds, caiman, parrots, turtles and a toucan. Several people wore traditional Indian dress of colorful feathers, paint and head dresses. The people here are called Caboclos, descendants of the Portuguese settlers who intermarried with the local Indians. They live off the land by fishing, raising chickens and pigs, and selling local crafts to cruise ships.  The  total population is 75-100 though it swells when the ships come to town. The crew brought donations for the school and came ashore in a small parade of boxes and kids following behind.  We walked through the village several times observing the local painters, wood carvers, jewelry makers, and regular village life including a game of football. We agreed with many that this was our favorite stop to date.  Unfortunately, this village demonstrates that there are two seasons in the Amazon, hot and hotter.  Not such which we had today, 91 degrees with 91 percent humidity.  That is the only reason to rush back to the ship after a few hours.

We are continuing west to Manaus, the largest city on the Amazon.  We spend two days here and will see another meeting of the rivers, look for caiman at night and visit this city of 2 million which boosts a world class opera house.

Early departure for our boat cruise on the Rio Negro. Along the city shore till we turned up a tributary to switch to motorized canoes to take us further upstream. Pink dolphin sightings and then lots of birds along the shores. The egret is to this area as the sparrow is to home. Two boys motored up to show us a four foot caiman and to pose for pictures.
Some of the grasses here float during the floods and feed the manatee then as the water subsides the cattle feed on the same grasses.  We saw a very rare bird, Hoatzin, that only flies between trees, looks goofy and climbs up and down trees to escape predators with its clawed wings. In addition it is a herbivore and also called a stink bird due to their natural eau de perfume.  Grey heron, terns, hawk, vultures and jacana entertained us. It was a pretty landscape and nice ride along the narrow waters. Fortunately, the lightning stopped as did the rain, after a while.  We learned that along the rio negro there are no mosquitoes--the ph of the water inhibits their growth.  The water has cooper, tannins from the forest leaves of Chile and flows from volcanic rock. The meeting was much like the other day as the muddy waters from the silts in the Amazon meet the black water do the Rio Negro. Again a very distinct line and even as the waters swirl together they remain distinct. The guide got two pitchers of water from the two rivers, the difference was dramatic even in this format.

The rivers of the Amazon support 3000 species of fish.  The largest of which is the arapaima that can reach lengths of 6.5 feet. They often can weigh up to 220 pounds.  They have large blackish green scales that can be used as nail files and will last for 20 years. The tongue is thought to have medicinal qualities and is often used as sand paper to scrape cylinders of dried guarana, an ingredient for some drinks.  They also have a feared, tiny fish-- the toothpick fish-- that swims in the flooded forests.  It enters the body and attaches its hooks internally.  It can only be removed with surgery and it must be done within three days.  Turns out it has happened but the hype is more fiction than fact.

Rather than go out to the same place caiman spotting at night we choose to stay on board to watch a local Brazilian dance and singing group called Simetria Norte.  Brazilian rhythms, dances and brightly colored costumes made for a festive evening.  The fun fact of the show was that the troupe is thirty years old and the founder still sings and has her very adult sons, daughter and grandchildren in the show.  She also had a collection of "not sons".

Manaus is about 900 miles from the Atlantic, is the heart of Amazonia and the cultural center of the upper Amazon region.  It is surrounded by jungle and the closest major city is 600 miles away.  The only way to reach Manaus is by boat or air.  Out tour started at a local museum with indigenous artifacts and scenes of daily life. While small, with a limited collection, we thoroughly enjoyed it. Next stop the opera house or Teatro Amazonas.  In 1882, at the height of the rubber boom, Manaus was one of the richest cities on earth.  Manaus had street lights and trams before most of Europe and they began building an opera house with the plan that it would the grandest opera house in the new world. It was the only building on land at that time as all the homes and boats were part of the floating city on the river. The opera opened in 1886 on New Year's Eve.  It's wrought iron staircases where from England, crystal chandelier from France, classical busts and marble from Italy.  The wood was Brazilian but sent to Europe to be carved.  The 22 marble columns were topped with Greek masks of comedy and tragedy.  The residents of the city were so rich that they would send clothes to Lisbon and Paris to be laundered and pressed. Because carriage wheels made so much noise on the cobblestone drive, thus interrupting the show, new bricks were made with rubber mixed in to muffle the sound.  All was well until 1910 when rubber seeds were smuggled out of Brazil to Indonesia and the Brazilian monopoly ended.  The city literally went dark as they could no longer afford to import coal. Rubber barons went back to Europe and the theater was left empty. Two renovations took place, one in 1990 without opening and the second just four years ago and upon completion the first opera in 90 years took place.

From the opera to the zoo.  The local zoo is owned and operated by the military.  We were especially interested in seeing the cats--panther, jaguar, and puma.  Lots of other local birds, monkeys, caiman, snakes and animals were also intriguing. Tour is over, back to the ship and set sail for Parintins.

Next day.  WOW.  Dropped anchor and tendered ashore this small island. We wandered around town, shopped at the local tourist market and visited the church--very simple yet elegant. Our treat for the day was to attend the Boi Bumba folk show. Each year this town hosts a three day festival where two teams compete to tell an ancient myth concerning an ox, a love affair, the killing of the masters ox and the revival of the ox by Paje, a kind of medicine man and witch.  The rivalry between the two groups is 86 years old and the town and it's visitors from the north of Brazil are divided in their loyalties to the two groups--red and blue.  In town the houses, doors, telephone booths and clothes are red or blue, even Coca cola as the main sponsor had to invent a new logo.  The red team put on a show for us. Incredible dancers and musicians wore elaborate, colorful and artistic costumes and headdresses.  Often the main dancer arrived on an animated float representing a dragon, lizard, bat or dolphin. With headdresses the dancers almost touched the ceiling of the convention center hall. Did I say, wow!  It was quite the sight and this became one of our favorite stops.

Two more sea days on the Amazon to go and we will turn north on the Atlantic headed for Devil's Island, Barbados and more Caribbean islands.  Devil's Island is six nautical miles off the French Guiana coast and was a pleasant surprise.  The island and Ile Royale were once the home of the notorious French penal colony opened by Napoleon in 1852, it closed in 1946. There are three islands close together, that held political prisoners, thieves and murderers. A great many of the 80,000 prisoners sent there were never seen again.  Alfred Dreyfus was wrongly imprisoned and eventually released. The movie, Papillion, was based here.  Strong currents and shark infested waters made escape virtually impossible.  We had a delightful morning walk around Ile Royale, through the grounds of the penitentiary, including the demarcation of where the guillotine was located.  Also governor's home, lighthouse, hospital and chapel. There is a modern hotel overlooking Devil's Island. On the mainland is the Guiana space center.  The island must be evacuated during eastward launches over the sea.  It was a great day out in the middle of nowhere.  Another sea tomorrow before Barbados.

Amazon Odyssey

Miami-St Bart's-St Lucia-Tobago

For once we don't have to fly far since our Oceania ship named the Regatta leaves from and returns to Miami.  Our first several days are at sea days.  Lots of time to laze around, eat too much, be entertained and exercise just a little.  Richard and Linda whom we met on the Bangkok to Dubai trip are on board and we have enjoyed reconnecting with them--especially for meals on the open back deck. The weather has been uncooperative. 20-30 foot swells the first day, down to 8-15 the next and today after our trip into St Bart's, a thunderstorm. Good thing Nancy has Dramamine.

The small island of St Bart's was discovered in 1493 by one Christopher Columbus.  He was baptized here. The natives of a nearby island moved in 1648 but left in 1651.  It took until 1763, when the French came for people to stay. They used it as a base for their Buccaneers to beat up on the Spanish galleons.  The French sold it to the Swedes in 1784 and it was used as a center of trade. France bought it back in 1878--it was free port then and continues to be one today. Today it is a playground for the rich and the famous.

Anchoring outside of the port necessitates taking a tender in to shore.  We did so this morning and walked along Main Street and back along the pier for a while before meeting our group for a yellow submarine ride. Main Street on this island sports shops like Hermes, Bulgari, Cartier, and Louis Vuitton.  A few one bedroom apts were for sale at 2.5 million euros....On our sub we went out to the reef and a shipwreck to see fish and sea turtles. Who knew that a sub could rock and roll under the water.  The reality was that our sub did not submerge but sat on the surface with us seated below looking out windows.


We have been on four ships of this design--three with Oceania and one with Azamara when we went to Indonesia. This makes settling in easy and we don't get lost. The ship is 592 feet long and was built in France. It has eleven decks of which nine are passenger decks. 684 passengers and 400 staff members. We have a favorite staff member, Jennifer Faust is the Oceania Club Ambassador--future trips guru. No wonder we like her. We have been on three trips when she has been working so figure we can no longer go anywhere unless she is on board. It is nice to see a familiar face and she is always up for a chat and a story or two.

1-2 meter seas tonight so a calmer night ride to the next port.  You won't believe this, for our day in Castries, St Lucia we canceled our tour in order to shop!!!!!  St Lucia is the shopping capital of the Caribbean. Good thing we did, it rained heavily, poured, most of the day and in the end, several tours were canceled anyway.  St Lucia is one of the Windward islands of the Lesser Antilles. It is 27 miles long and 14 miles wide shaped like a mango.  The Atlantic touches it's eastern shore and on the west is the Caribbean Sea.  It has twin coastal peaks, the Pitons that are 2,000 feet high and rain forests and all the lush vegetation that goes with it. Arawak Indians settled the island in 200 AD.  In the 1500's the Europeans settled here led by a famous buccaneer known as Wooden Leg.  The Dutch arrived in the 1600's and the French arrived after.  In the early 1800's after a series of battles the island became a British colony and stayed that way to 1979 when it became independent.

We ventured off ship to catch the water taxi to the other side of the harbor.  It never showed, but we found a small boat willing to ferry us across and pick us up later.  Did we say it was raining.  We arrived wet and then walked through ankle high water along the path to the shops.  We managed to spend money and dry off a bit in the process.  Back we went to spend the afternoon on the ship, back through the puddles, now formed into lakes and onto our small boat.  After drying out, we did what you always do on cruises, eat, drink, sleep and eat again. The bad news of the day was the thunderstorm.  We were on ship so we were safe, but a bolt hit the ship and our computer got zapped......C'est la vie.

We sailed all night to Scarborough Tobago and a morning surprise of sun!  It is hot and humid here but we went off ship for a short walk early in the morning.  Back on board it was time water aerobics which hard when you can't touch bottom.  We had fun, then sat in the hot tub and alongside deck to dry off.  Tobago is the "resort island" of Trinidad and Tobago.  Trinidad is the business center for the oil and gas industry that flourishes here.  We watched the ferry leave for Trinidad as that is what connects the two islands.  Sue had a office here so has visited in the past though not in the capital of Scarborough.  We are not far off the coast of Venezuela.  Because of the location the biological diversity is more like Venezuela then the Caribbean islands.

We set sail at 4:00 for two sea days on the way to the Amazon.  Just so you know, we read the weather back home and are glad to be were it is 88, even with rain, rather than anticipating the first snow of 8-10 inches.  Activities for the next few days will be:  eating, sleeping, playing cribbage, swimming, eating, going to shows and eating.  Will not blog again till we have reports from the Amazon.

Tanzania and Kenya Photo Safari--August to September 2014 At Long Last

Day1  We arrived in Tanzania, and stayed overnight Arusha Coffee Lodge.  It was late so we had dinner in the bar—baked apple for Nancy and french fries for Sue, we were happy.  Our guide and driver is Henry or Baboo.

In the morning we are off to Tarangire National Park for two nights at Swala Camp in the Baobab capital of the world.  Game drive all day with picnic lunch prior to our arrival at dusk to camp.  We found our tent up against a baobab tree with a resident Tree Hyrex right out the window.  Sue was not well for dinner so Nancy ate with Kate and Frank who had arrived when we did and are on a month long Abercrombie trip.  Elephants, zebra and impalas hang out at the watering hole the camp keeps open for them. Laying on your bed and seeing the game is pretty cool. 

Day two game drive:  We started what was to be our normal routine for the next several weeks. Up early, breakfast and a game drive. We are introduced to our first local creature- the tsetse fly. Lots of fly swatting. And boy do they bite!  Our game drive produces great sightings of baboon (who stayed and watched us), lions, giraffe, zebra, elephant, wart hogs, and great birds. And this is our first drive!!!!! One of the favorites is a red headed , spotted wing, striped tail bird or officially the red and yellow Bobbit. 

Back to camp to prepare for dinner. After cleaning up we walked out the door of our tent to be greeted by two very large (the very is because they were so so close) elephants. So now what! Dinner awaited. Remembering what our camp manager had said they often do to move elephants so others could drink at the water hole, we began to whistle and clap our hands. After thinking about it for a bit the elephants turned and left. Dinner was terrific. 

Morning game drive heading out of the park for our drive to Lake Manyara. We saw lions and wild dogs, prettier and less scruffy then the Botswana pack we saw. Lake Manyara itself is a shallow lake and was covered by thousands of Pink Flamingos.  We also spotted Hornbill, Yellow Throated Sandgrouse, Long Crested Eagle and many other birds. Then on a rock was a vibrant blue and hot pink Agama Lizard. Wow-who would think a lizard could be so colorful.

Then the drive from the flat open terrain to our steep climb up to the rim of Ngorongoro Crater. Our  lodge perched on the rim was absolutely stunning. Each handcrafted suite is a large hut full of antiques, a fireplace, soaking tub and crater views from each room, including the “loo with a view”.  We rose early to enter the park at 6:30, one road in and one road out.  We spent about an hour watching a mother lion with her 2 cubs near a stream  The cubs played together as the mom was always aware of where they were as well as where we were.  After a bit of a drive we saw 2 moms with 3 cubs watching the cape buffalo herd.  As the head came down the hill, one of the lionesses sounded the alert and they all moved away as the buffalo marched to the river.  

We had a picnic breakfast near the hippo pool before continuing our drive.The crater has a salt lake, complete with flamingos, forest and open lands, and what we thought were lots of wildebeests (more to come in Kenya).  The crater has 30,000 animals living in the 100 sq miles of the crater floor.  All the big five are here—cape buffalo, lion, elephant, leopard, rhino are present here or nearby.  Elephants do not like to scale the walls with their young as they are afraid they will slip and fall.  We saw three rhino way, way off, they are a black spot on our pictures.  Picnic lunch by the hippo pool again where we ran into Kate and Frank, the couple we met earlier at Swala camp, and agreed to dine together. 

After lunch we had great fun at another hippo pond watching the goings on—who could believe that a hippo could do a graceful rollover or rest on his back with all four legs sticking up in the air.  Lots of grunting, yawning and then tail swishing to throw water and mud on their backs.   Cattle cranes are everywhere and perch in the sun on hippo backs.  Back to camp for a rest before dinner, a bit of time in the gift shop where we met two Masai women selling their beaded jewelry.  Who could resist a chat, a picture and a bracelet or two.  The walk down to our hut took us through the zebras munching on the lodge lawns.  Oh did we mention each hut has a butler….we walked in to find a tub brimming over with bubbles in a steaming hot bubble bath.  Sigh.  Surrounded by rose petals and three dozen roses in a vase next to the tub.  Ah, life is good.  We met Kate and Frank for dinner only to discover that Kate is the widow of Henry Ford.  For desert the staff brought cakes to each table, they sang happy birthday to Sue, a few days late.  The meringue cake with cream filling and strawberries capped off a fantastic stay.  Tomorrow Kate and Frank head to the Serengeti and we head to Tanzania.

The variety of the topography should be mentioned.  We were in mountains, volcanic craters, lush green rainforests and dry, dusty, arid plains.  The Masai are herdsmen and it is amazing to us that their cattle and goats can survive on these harsh plains.

Morning departure for Arusha and our plane to Nairobi.  Drove through Arusha…1/2 million people but not the infrastructure for it.  Lots of government housing and buildings downtown, it looked like an overgrown African village.  Even in Nairobi the cattle graze on the median strips, life seems to be transplanted from the village to the city and it all has a similar sense about it.  We stopped at a cultural center and art gallery, which had some beautiful pieces:  carvings, paintings. photography and beading—we would love to have brought it all home.

We were met on the tarmac at Nairobi airport and escorted through customs.  We drove through Nairobi to the Nairobi National park.  It is the only national park this close to a city, outside the gate is the traffic and hustle and bustle of Nairobi and inside are lions, rhino, and leopards….We arrived too late and too tired to do a game drive, but who needs a game drive when the local hippos show up to drink from the swimming pool outside our window.  We met up with our fellow travelers and Andy our guide who is a transplanted Irishman.  He fell in love with Kenya on a trip when he was young and returned to live out his dream of guiding and photographing Kenya’s wildlife.  We met our fellow photographers:  Dean, Saul, Kay and John. This part of the trip has a special emphasis on photography  and the great migration, so there is max of 9 participants though we have 6.  They all shared tips and hints that made our photos even better, we are grateful.

In the morning we fly off in a 20 seater plane to the Kicheche Bush Camp in the Olar Orok Conservancy.  Because we are on a private conservancy we can go out before dawn and stay out past dark as well as going off road to be closer, respectfully, to the animals that we spot.  The camp is a permanent camp and while it is tented, they are quite luxurious tents.  The grounds are unfenced and tucked among the euclea and african olive trees.  Animals wander freely and can munch outside your tents at night.  The Masai warriors serve as escorts once nightfalls and protect the camp at night.  The food was terrific and prepared and cooked by Masai.  Here we met our first traditional safari bucket shower.  The staff draws hot water from the supply heated over a camp fire, climbs a ladder and fills your bucket.  You can control the flow, so if you want it hot, wash quickly as it is about 4 minutes worth of water.  We did just fine, though Sue donated some water to Nancy to wash her hair.  Thank you Sue.

Animals and landscape:

We fell in love with the expansive landscape.  We encountered many lion prides, night hunting, wildebeests, monkeys, gazelles and impalas, giraffes, and unfortunately leopards on the game drives we happened to sit out.  Many kills with the requisite hyenas and vultures.  We learned there are four types of vultures and even among them there is a pecking order of who eats when.  While it often sounds gruesome to talk about the kills, you learn quickly what a major part of that cycle of life mentioned in the Lion King the kills play.  The lions are bountiful here, though endangered in many places, because the conservancy is protected land with food aplenty.  Fat bellies and healthy cubs abound.  One of the highlights of the game drives was the river crossing by a lioness who searched the banks for a safe place to cross after the rains swelled the river.  We followed her along the bank and were rewarded by her slow, careful crossing and then swift last jump to dry land.  Wow!

During lunch in the camp, two Masai women set up a market displaying and selling the goods of several women who make up a craft consortium.  Again a time for conversation, pictures and a bit of buying.  The prize purchase was a wedding necklace made of cow hide, shells and beaded strands.  It is quite beautiful and now hangs in our home.

The next day we ran into a head of elephants with babies onboard.  What fun watching the youngest, about a month old, run between us and his mom and the other elephants,  Much like a toddler dashing off in all directions only to return quickly to mom and safety.  His trunk was flying in all directions as they do not have total control of them until about one year old.  

Next we came upon two giraffes “necking”.  This is the ritual to determine who is stronger.  Standing side by side the giraffes twist and turn their necks around each other to deliver a head butt.  Eventually one surrenders.  Next a pride of lions, two moms and 7 cubs.  We watched them play and romp on a peninsula in the river.  Soon both moms crossed over the water, more of a wide stream and called to the cubs to follow.  

One by one they found the courage to do what, was for them, a big jump/crossing.  As they arrived on the other side mom greeted them with a lick or nudge to congratulate them on their accomplishments.  

Just like kids two of the cubs approached the river, looked, and one pushed the other forward—you could almost hear him saying, “no, you go first”.  Soon there was only one on the far side and he could not get enough courage to cross.  He went over land to a shallower, slower area of the water and crossed there.  This brought him with all the jeeps between him and his mom.  He went back down the bank but came up again and circled widely around the jeeps to mom.  She was not impressed and did not greet him.  He will learn.

Driving to the Maasai Mara we learned that it is the same eco-system as the Serengeti, the Mara is Kenya’s name for it. The wildebeests roam in tens of thousands and we are hoping to catch them crossing the Mara river.  Our camp is a Natural Habitat Camp set up just for the season.  It is a little more campish, simple, then others we have been in but with all the amenities we need including our bucket showers, five minutes here.  We are the only group in the camp which is located on a bend in the river.  Across is a flat expanse of land which hosts different animals during our stay.  The Mara has a myriad of plains animals.  The wildebeests are joined by their zebra friends.  Also abundant are gazelles, impala, hartebeest, topi and giraffe.  Then there are the lions, leopards and cheetah.  The hyenas here are not just scavengers here, they are hunters as well and are found in some of the largest numbers in Africa here on the Mara.

Each and every day was a feast for the eyes, the acacia trees dotted the landscape.  Everywhere you looked there were wildebeests.  Our first sighting as we headed out in the Mara was a Cheetah.  We found her behind a bush in the otherwise open plain.  She laid there preening and scanning the horizon for prey.  We were probably 10 feet away but she had no interest in us.  Next days we saw Cheetah again, always under a bush watching.  Dean got the patience prize when he waited 45 minutes for one to move—success, off to the river to jump across and run into the bush on the other side.  Yea Dean!  Nancy can still see this happening in her minds eye even though she wasn’t there—talk about living vicariously.

 

While we are on the subject of cats—We sighted out first leopard as you would normally see them, obscure and hidden in the bush, munching on something.  No problem we were still thrilled aT this “usual” sighting.   Nancy asked for an unusual sighting and was rewarded when we followed a leopard along the river with his kill, a large hare, in his mouth.  He did not climb a tree but stayed on the ground to devour his breakfast.  Then came out to preen and walked across the open plain.  Holy smokes, the cameras were clicking furiously.  WOW!  Even now as we type our smiles are ear to ear remembering the sight.

We haven’t mentioned the cape buffalo which are abundant.  We were often within a few feet of them but they would usually turn away as if camera shy.  They are huge animals and often travel with their own birds to keep them free of insects—everyone is happy.  We saw a den of Jackal pups, they would look, go back down and come back up.  Mom and Dad were off hunting so they stayed close to the den but were too curious not to come out and peak at and entertain us.  A Hyena protected her den, no pups in sight.  We saw bat eared fox and their young as well as a herd of mongoose and a family of wart hogs.  They are a funny looking animal, usually seen from behind with tails straight up in the air as they run off.

Wildebeest crossings: There are no other antelope that look like the Wildebeest—it is said that it looks like they are assembled from spare parts. The fore quarters from an ox big and broad, the hind quarters from and antelope lean and skinny, and the mane and tail from a horse.  They are bearded and horned on a box like head.  While they look black from a distance they are actually dark grey with vertical stripes.  They are weird but fascinating.  They make a migratory circle each year of between 500 and 1000 miles. It starts after calving season on the short grass plains of the SE Serengeti.  Then they head west to Lake Victoria, across the grass savannah to the open woodlands and turn north to the Mara.  Once there they start their return trip to the south.  They are continually on the move, day and night.  They often form long columns and are accompanied by zebras and Thompson gazelles. They number about 1.5 million.  The highlight, and much photographed event of this migration, is the Mara River Crossing.

There are a few spots on the river that are known to have crossings.  We spent two hours one day waiting for a small group to decide to cross, no one made the first move and eventually they all wandered away from the river.  It was fun and interesting to watch them even though they did not cross. It just takes just one to jump in the river and they all follow.  A few would go down the slope and get us all ready with cameras held high before they would turn and go back up the bank.  Maybe tomorrow.  And indeed we saw a crossing that day.  The herds were massing and heading to the river.  We followed them down and found a spot to wait in the human ritual accompanying that of the wildebeest ritual.  Not wanting to scare the animals we parked a good 50 yards back from the river bank.  More and more jeeps came and lined up as we watched and waited.  They are going, they are not, they are going, they are not.  The suspense was killing Sue.  You can see a massive column coming your way and realize how big this crossing could be if they would only go—and go they did, one toe in the water and they are off and 25 jeeps race to the river’s edge for the view.  Once committed the wildebeest go, undisturbed by the jeeps.  What an incredible treat.  Our guides estimated 40-50 thousand that crossed.  It went on for 30-40 minutes.  Dean said it was only animal show where you come 20 minutes late and still see a great show.  Everyone was thrilled and full of adrenaline.  A few crocs loomed in the distance but did not come in for the kill. No more adjectives in our vocabulary to describe this.  They leap into the river from the shore, run if they can but more likely swim to emerge on the other side to run up a steep bank and head off to follow the leader across the plains.  The water runs swiftly and is churned to a deep brown as they cross.  They young must fight not to be swept downstream. The air is thick from the dust of their hooves.  We were taken by surprise when a few jumped back in the river and returned to the where they had started.  Why?  Who knows.  TIA (explained later).  When it was over you could look back or forward and not see a single wildebeest.  Within hours a new group would begin to assemble to do it once again.  

And the next day it happened all over.  We followed the column which moving slowly and unpredictably when five zebras raced to the water causing the wildebeest to follow.  We found a spot on the river between the two potential crossings as they ran to the far one.  Down to the bank—will they go or not?  No.   After milling around they quite unexpectedly turned on a dime and raced back along the road behind us, thundering like in the Lion King to the second crossing area.  One went in and  3-4 thousand followed.  

1. Today the crocs added a new dimension to the show.  One came in but missed it’s prey and then got stomped on by the swimming and jumping wildebeests.  On the other side one caught his prey but could not bring it in, watching was hard but a part of the circle. We discovered that crocs eat once a year and with their slow metabolism digest till next year.  This was feeding time.  Eventually a second croc came in to finish the kill and the two made quick work of the wildebeest.  The one who initially missed his prey caught one and traveled up stream with it in its jaws.  Crocs here are huge, very HUGE—the African Croc is actually a Nile croc.  They average 20 feet in length and weigh up to 900 pounds.  These guys were well fed and fat.
   

Speaking of crossings, we saw a small herd of elephants do just that.  The largest slowly explore the river to feel and look for crocs.  When they decide it is safe to proceed they surround the young and venture further.  Always checking it is a slow procession across the water.  At one point all we could see of the smallest elephant was his trunk sticking up and the tippy top of his head.  Earlier, a mom held her calf back by resting her trunk along his back and over his head.  Their caution and protectiveness are always in play.  They arrived safely on the other side.

One afternoon we drove to a nearby Masai village.  68 people of five families live within the circular, thorned, protective walls of the village.  As we drove up we were greeted by 8 to 10 Masai Warriors who welcomed us with song and dance.  Several spoke English as explained the purpose of each song.  The Masai are great hunters who once proved their manliness by hunting lions with a spear.  Now instead, to woo the women, they jump.  The highest jumper attracts the most women.  The jumps from a dead stop were amazing.  

These tall thin warriors jumped many feet with what seemed to be little effort.  Masai are polygamists to this day, though each young married man we met seemed happy with just one wife.  We followed them into the heart of the village where the women engaged us in a wedding dance and song.  Sue and Nancy joined the line with many smiles and laughs and attempts to learn the words to the song.  These short white blandly dressed women stood out like a sore thumb among the tall brightly adorned black women with incredible smiles.  

We were invited into their stick and adobe mud walled houses.  An entry foyer of sorts lead to three rooms.  The central room was the kitchen, living room and dining room with food prepared oven an open fire.  It was about 8 feet by 10 feet with a low ceiling and a few places to perch.  Off that room on either side was a doorway to the adult bedroom and the children’s bedroom, just large enough for a mattress.  At night the cattle are gathered and brought into center of circle for protection from predators.  Right now the predators are not as aggressive  as usual due to the abundance of wildebeest prey.  The local women, from several tribes, had set up a market so we could shop till we dropped—and we did.  We met two young girls returning from school who conversed with us as we walked to the spear throwing demonstration.  Dean and Saul both tried theirs hand at being a warrior. 

Like all good things our trip had to come to an end. Our last night in camp was an African BBQ under the stars near the river. The food at this Natural Habitat Camp was extraordinary. Everything was made from scratch. We had fresh bread shaped like an elephant, who gets the trunk! Pork roast, beef wellington, etc etc. And then there was desert. We had to see the kitchen.   In a tent was a small freezer. A tiny stove and a charcoal oven. Cooking incredible food for staff and guests was no small feet. 

Each and every staff member was exceptional. Our Masai guards, our Masai spotters, our guides (especially David and Andy) our bucket fillers, the chefs etc etc made this an incredible trip. We hope to return!

Off to small airstrip to fly to Nairobi before returning home. A funny change of planes in the middle of no where even though our first plane was going to Nairobi. Who knows. We learned a new saying-TIA- meaning this is Africa. We love it!!!!

Cheers , Sue and Nancy